Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Strone Crag

Akahi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bad Monsters (Unknown) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Cat-O-Nine-Tails S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cersei T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cost of Business T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Creaking Plank S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Firefly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gods and Monsters S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Itchy Scratchy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kiss the Sky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Le Rap Et Tap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Mad Calf Disease T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Major Tom T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Minotaur T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Bad Luck T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nimbus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Habits Die Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orbital Decay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rear-View Mirrors S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Red Gorilla S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road to Recovery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Cadet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Starstruck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tyrion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wealth of Nations T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: JS, Oct. 2008
Page Views: 1,481 total · 12/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Oct 5, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Named to commemorate a new 70 meter rope that was cut by a large block as the line was being cleaned, the route is well worth the walk for someone breaking into 5.9 trad. Start by climbing a shallow left-leaning ramp leading to a vertical thin crack bisecting the clean-looking buttress bearing the bolted lines of Tyrion to the right and Cersei to the left. Follow the cracks above to a substantial ledge. At the ledge walk left to its end, make a few moves up over a bush (sometimes clipped), then continue diagonalling toward the left to a dihedral leading to an obvious roof crack. Belay from gear (takes at least one 3.5 or 4 inch cam) under the roof crack at a small footstance. (5.6 or 5.7).

The second pitch powers out the roof crack (5.9) then cruises easier ground to a ledge with chain anchors (the top of the second pitch of Starstruck), but ignore the anchors and continue up the crack to the right to a bulge. After surmounting the bulge, step left around the buttress back onto the face and climb near the buttress to the top (if nervous, you can climb a bit more left and clip a bolt or two on the last 30 feet of Mad Calf). Bolt anchors await on top.

(The first pitch of Cost of Business was originally posted as climbing a right-facing dihedral over some bushes, right of first pitch described above, but that original first pitch detracted from the good climbing on the second pitch. Consequently, I’'ve exercised the prerogative of the FA/OP and "changed”" the route.)

Location

See the approach for Starstruck. Once on the ledge system, walk east on the trail to where it begins to slope down. Above is a clean-looking buttress with three obvious lines on it, the center being the shallow dihedral/thin crack start to Cost of Business and the bolted routes to either side being Cersei and Tyrion. See the Cersei page for a beta photo of the start. See the Starstruck page for descent options.

Protection

Standard trad rack; include at least one 3.5-4 inch cam for the belay atop the first pitch.

Photos

Jake Davis  
 
Watch the roof move just off the first belay as follower, core shotted a rope over the sharp edge on the right. Jul 22, 2017
zoso
  5.10
zoso  
  5.10
The 1st pitch is much better than it looks and worth doing. 5.7. Aug 30, 2018
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
  5.10a
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
  5.10a
We belayed lower in the dihedral in line with the roof crack. You can avoid the bush by going up the right and then traversing. The rope stacks nicely on the bush and there is a decent stance. No 4 needed for that belay. (Also a bolted belay 3 feet around the corner to the left (but an awkward stance)

The belay right under the roof seems it would only take 4s and has touchy moves right off the belay to establish below the roof. (I wouldn't belay here)

The roof is physical and more of a .75-1 jams. The jams are quite sharp if this is a hard grade for you I don’t think tape is a bad idea even though it’s literally two jams then finger locks. After falling I laybacked it and it seemed easier. Aug 30, 2018
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
I am another advocate for belaying 20ft below the 2nd pitch crux roof in the low-angle corner stance. This belay currently takes 2 pieces in the #1 camalot range and it is located to the right a mere three feet from the much more ackward semi-hanging Cersei 1st pitch bolted anchor/rap station. This corner location is the most logical place to belay for 4 Routes: Mad Calf Disease, Old Habits Die Hard, Cersei, and Cost of Business. I can imagine John wanted to avoid placing the chain anchor/ rap station in this perfect stance to keep this corner traditionally protected(?), but it really makes sense to me to simply move the anchor/rap station here for so many reasons. I propose the hanging belay under the roof for Mad Cow Disease and the 1st pitch belay/rap anchor for Cersei should be pulled and then re-located here. Simplicity is beautiful and intelligent. Sep 21, 2018
Thumer
SLC, UT
  5.9+
Thumer   SLC, UT
  5.9+
If you use the belay right under the roof, it does take a #3 and a #4 well, but be careful. Some of the rock at that spot appears solid, but can actually move. I really enjoyed the second pitch, but didn't like the first pitch much so I only gave it 2 stars.

One other thing, if your follower falls on the roof, they will be suspended in air and need to be lowered to re-climb it. You might want to setup your belay so you can easily lower your follower. This happened to me, but I was using a grigri so it was easy for me to lower. It would have been a pain, if I was using my atc guide. Sep 25, 2018

More About Cost of Business

Printer-Friendly