Type: Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches
FA: JS, Oct. 2008
Page Views: 1,841 total · 13/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Oct 5, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Description

Named to commemorate a new 70 meter rope that was cut by a large block as the line was being cleaned, the route is well worth the walk for someone breaking into 5.9 trad. Start by climbing a shallow left-leaning ramp leading to a vertical thin crack bisecting the clean-looking buttress bearing the bolted lines of Tyrion to the right and Cersei to the left. Follow the cracks above to a substantial ledge. At the ledge walk left to its end, make a few moves up and hand traverse left into a dihedral leading to an obvious roof crack. Belay from gear (takes at least one 3.5 or 4 inch cam) under the roof crack at a small footstance. (5.6 or 5.7).

The second pitch powers out the roof crack (5.9) then cruises easier ground to a ledge with chain anchors (the top of the second pitch of Starstruck), but ignore the anchors and continue up the crack to the right to a bulge. After surmounting the bulge, step left around the buttress back onto the face and climb near the buttress to the top (if nervous, you can climb a bit more left and clip a bolt or two on the last 30 feet of Mad Calf). Bolt anchors await on top.

Location

See the approach for Starstruck. Once on the ledge system, walk east on the trail to where it begins to slope down. Above is a clean-looking buttress with three obvious lines on it, the center being the shallow dihedral/thin crack start to Cost of Business and the bolted routes to either side being Cersei and Tyrion. See the Cersei page for a beta photo of the start. See the Starstruck page for descent options.

Protection

Standard trad rack; include at least one 3.5-4 inch cam for the belay atop the first pitch.

Photos