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Routes in Strone Crag

Akahi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat-O-Nine-Tails S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cersei T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cost of Business T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Creaking Plank S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Firefly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gods and Monsters S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Itchy Scratchy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kiss the Sky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Le Rap Et Tap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Mad Calf Disease T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Major Tom T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Minotaur T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Bad Luck T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nimbus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Habits Die Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orbital Decay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rear-View Mirrors S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Red Gorilla S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road to Recovery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Cadet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Starstruck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tyrion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wealth of Nations T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: JS, Jeff Traub, Sept. 2013
Page Views: 233 total, 6/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 31, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This is the left-most climb on the clean buttress left of Starstruck and the Minotaur routes. Although the first pitch is so-so (should clean up with more ascents), the second is a looker. Begin with steep face climbing past two bolts (5.9+) to gain easy broken cracks. Above diagonal left to a bolt marking the beginning of the next steep section. The bolt allows one to forego placing gear in suspect rock and protects moves (be circumspect) to a more solid, albeit very thin crack above -- think brass or steel nuts. Belay at chain anchors from a small ledge. This also is the recommended way to get to the money pitch of Old Habits, and can also serve as an approach to Mad Calf'’s crux pitch.

The second pitch steps right to a crack to gain the bolt-protected arête leading to the roofband right of the overhanging crack of Cost of Business. Work over the roofband and continue past a few more bolts to a ledge with chain anchors. Cersei ends here, but you can continue up Mad Calf by stepping left or the last pitch of Starstruck by stepping right.

Location

See the Tyrion page. Descent: From the ledge marking the end of Cersei, descend the route in two raps; you can reach the ground in a single rap from the ledge with a 70 meter rope, but it will barely reach. A photodiagram of this and neighboring routes is on the main Strone Crag page.

Protection

A set of cams from 0.5 to 2.5 inches, a set of brass (offsets useful), and draws.

Photos

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