Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
FA: JS, Jeff Traub, Sept. 2013
Page Views: 977 total · 8/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 31, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Description Suggest change

This is the left-most climb on the clean buttress left of Starstruck and the Minotaur routes. Although the first pitch is so-so (should clean up with more ascents), the second is a looker. Begin with steep face climbing past two bolts (5.9+) to gain easy broken cracks. Above diagonal left to a bolt marking the beginning of the next steep section. The bolt allows one to forego placing gear in suspect rock and protects moves (be circumspect) to a more solid, albeit very thin crack above -- think brass or steel nuts. Belay at chain anchors from a small ledge. This also is the recommended way to get to the money pitch of Old Habits, and can also serve as an approach to Mad Calf'’s crux pitch.

The second pitch steps right to a crack to gain the bolt-protected arête leading to the roofband right of the overhanging crack of Cost of Business. Work over the roofband and continue past a few more bolts to a ledge with chain anchors. Cersei ends here, but you can continue up Mad Calf by stepping left or the last pitch of Starstruck by stepping right.

Location Suggest change

See the Tyrion page. Descent: From the ledge marking the end of Cersei, descend the route in two raps; you can reach the ground in a single rap from the ledge with a 70 meter rope, but it will barely reach. A photodiagram of this and neighboring routes is on the main Strone Crag page.

Protection Suggest change

A set of cams from 0.5 to 2.5 inches, a set of brass (offsets useful), and draws.

Photos

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