Type: Trad, 410 ft (124 m), 5 pitches
FA: Carl Dec, Thomas Martin, Billy Smallen, Jeff Rhoads, Sean T M
Page Views: 8,347 total · 87/month
Shared By: cdec on Jul 10, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Itchy Scratchy follows good rock for 5 pitches, can be climbed with 8 draws, a light rack, rapped with a single 60m rope and is shady mornings all year! I saw the 5th pitch crack from Starstruck and thought it might be good. Turns out it is!
Pitches 1 and 4 are very good.
Pitches 2 & 3 are mostly easy, with short bits of steeper climbing, similar to the end of the 1st pitch of Steort's Ridge.
Pitch 5 makes the route!
Pitches 1-4 can be climbed at 5.7 R bolts only. Gear and small trees can be used to make the route well protected for beginners. See pitch descriptions.

Route starts below pin and bolts on small, right trending crack.
Bolts on first pitch are shiny. After that they match the rock really well.

P1 5.7 90’ - 1 pin, 6 bolts
Can place a purple c3 at the start before piton.
Belay on good ledge from 2 bolt anchor.

P2 5.6 100’ - 4 bolts/gear
Start in small cracks left of anchor, trend up and left of 2 small stumps.
There are small cracks between bolts 1 and 2 for a piece but the climbing is very easy.
Starts slabby, gets steeper.
Belay at good ledge from 2 bolt anchor.

P3 5.5 75’ - 3 bolts/gear
Cam just above belay on slab.
Starts slabby, gets steeper.
Belay from bolted anchor on ledge left of tree.

P4 5.7 65’ - 4 bolts
No gear but still well protected.
Belay at 2 bolt anchor or skip and combine pitches 4 & 5.

P5 5.7 85’ 2 bolts & gear (purple c3 to #1)
Use horizontals and bolts low, then follow ever narrowing crack up and RIGHT, on smaller gear and bigger holds, to top of pillar and 2 bolt anchor.

Location Suggest change

Approach: The same as for strong crag. Then about 25’ before you reach Starstruck head up hill between wall on your left and big pine on your right.
Follow trail up and then trend right for approx. 75'. Then head straight uphill. This part is maybe 100’ total.
There is Poison Ivy near, not at, the base so rack up 15’ right of the route by the large stump.
The PI can be avoided but you must know what it looks like.
10-20 minutes.

Descent: route can be rapped with a single 60m.
Again there is PI around the base. To avoid pulling ropes into it clip the ends to the 1st person to rap. Once all are down move left and flip the pull side over a small horn on the cliff above. This will bring the rope safely down to the left of the route which is PI free.

Protection Suggest change

8 draws, a couple should be alpine.
BD purple C3 to #1. BD stoppers to #7 or 8.

Photos

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