Type: Trad, 410 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Carl Dec, Thomas Martin, Billy Smallen, Jeff Rhoads, Sean T M
Page Views: 3,317 total · 108/month
Shared By: cdec on Jul 10, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Itchy Scratchy follows good rock for 5 pitches, can be climbed with 8 draws, a light rack, rapped with a single 60m rope and is shady mornings all year! I saw the 5th pitch crack from Starstruck and thought it might be good. Turns out it is!
Pitches 1 and 4 are very good.
Pitches 2 & 3 are mostly easy, with short bits of steeper climbing, similar to the end of the 1st pitch of Steort's Ridge.
Pitch 5 makes the route!
Pitches 1-4 can be climbed at 5.7 R bolts only. Gear and small trees can be used to make the route well protected for beginners. See pitch descriptions.

Route starts below pin and bolts on small, right trending crack.
Bolts on first pitch are shiny. After that they match the rock really well.

P1 5.7 90’ - 1 pin, 6 bolts
Can place a purple c3 at the start before piton.
Belay on good ledge from 2 bolt anchor.

P2 5.6 100’ - 4 bolts/gear
Start in small cracks left of anchor, trend up and left of 2 small stumps.
There are small cracks between bolts 1 and 2 for a piece but the climbing is very easy.
Starts slabby, gets steeper.
Belay at good ledge from 2 bolt anchor.

P3 5.5 75’ - 3 bolts/gear
Cam just above belay on slab.
Starts slabby, gets steeper.
Belay from bolted anchor on ledge left of tree.

P4 5.7 65’ - 4 bolts
No gear but still well protected.
Belay at 2 bolt anchor or skip and combine pitches 4 & 5.

P5 5.7 85’ 2 bolts & gear (purple c3 to #1)
Use horizontals and bolts low, then follow ever narrowing crack up and RIGHT, on smaller gear and bigger holds, to top of pillar and 2 bolt anchor.


Approach: The same as for strong crag. Then about 25’ before you reach Starstruck head up hill between wall on your left and big pine on your right.
Follow trail up and then trend right over one log, then under another. Then straight up hill. This part is maybe 100’ total.
There is Poison Ivy near, not at, the base so rack up 15’ right of route by large stump, NOT below the climb. The PI can be avoided but you must know what it looks like.
10-20 minutes.

Descent: route can be rapped with a single 60m.
Again there is PI around the base. To avoid pulling ropes into it clip the ends to the 1st person to rap. Once all are down move left and flip the pull side over a small horn on the cliff above. This will bring the rope safely down to the left of the route which is PI free.


8 draws, a couple should be alpine.
BD purple C3 to #1. BD stoppers to #7 or 8.


Cassidy Thomas
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7 R
Cassidy Thomas   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7 R
First off, thanks to the first ascent party for this valued addition. This is a good route to take someone who's just starting to get into multi-pitch climbing. I thought the first and last pitches were descent 5.7 climbing. Everything in between was 5.5, maybe a couple 5.6 spots in my opinion. The description of the location was good and made it easy to find. The logs that you pass over and under weren't as large as I was originally looking for so keep that in mind when you're trying to find the route. I don't think I'll go back unless i'm exposing someone to some easy multi pitch just to help them get the hang of things but it's definitely a good route for that purpose and worth doing once. Take a set of nuts or small cams for the last pitch. Be aware on the descent, even with a 70 meter rope, you cannot get from the top anchors to the tree that has a sling and links, you end up about 8 feet above the tree. Jul 24, 2016
Paul Wilhelmsen
sandy, ut
Paul Wilhelmsen   sandy, ut
Thanks for the comment about not being able to make it from the anchors of p5 to the anchors of P3. You saved me from trying, then having to prussic back up half the rope.

Great route! The route setters must have fought a heinous battle with all that poison ivy!! Aug 10, 2016
Jeremy Polk
Sandy, UT
Jeremy Polk   Sandy, UT
Worth doing once. We used a 70m rope and did it in two long pitches with very minimal rope drag. We linked pitches 1 and 2 together for our first pitch and then 3,4 and 5 for our second pitch. We just barely had enough rope to make it to the top of the last pitch. Due to the length of the pitches and the redeeming final pitch crack, this was actually a pretty fun route. As others have mentioned, a 70m rope does not reach the slung tree from the p5 anchor... but it gets you pretty close. We were able to down climb about 6 ft to the tree. Super light rack for the last pitch. If you don't have trad gear and you are looking for an easy multi pitch bolted route and you don't want to drive to Rock Canyon, this thing is all bolts to the top of the fourth pitch. Also of note, this would be another way to start Standard Ridge. Sep 12, 2016
John Steiger  
Good addition to the plethora of long easier routes in the Storm Mountain area. Got a little lost above the second pitch (I didn't take the description), but just kept cruising until I got back on line. And nice hardware! Seems to be all stainless, and are some of those half-inchers? Great fall afternoon route--bakes in the sun, with outstanding views. Sep 27, 2016
cdec   SLC, UT
Funny thing about those 1/2 inchers. Bought some bolts and the company packed out 12mm instead of 3/8. They wouldn't fit in the 3/8 holes. We thought they were 1/2 inch so we re-drilled the holes and the 12mm bolts dropped right in. Like throwing a banana down a hallway.
After much head scratching we figured out that the bolts were 12mm and the holes 1/2 inch. So down we went and bought 1/2 bolts to fill the holes.

The bolts are hard to see and there aren't many on 2 and 3. The climbing is easy but the description is a good idea. Glad you liked it! Sep 28, 2016
Super fun, I am sure their are more than a few out there scratching their heads wondering why they didn't get to this first:). Loved it and look forward to next time! Oct 7, 2016
Great stuff. Looking forward to taking my kids up there.

Thanks for all the work on the route. It was clear there was a fair amount of cleaning done. Very well engineered and the PI was a non-issue...unless you drop your helmet and it rolls down into it. he he Oct 12, 2016
Thumer   SLC, UT
The last pitch was good. It would be a good first multipitch. Oct 14, 2016
Gregory Palis
Salt Lake City, Utah
Gregory Palis   Salt Lake City, Utah
A bit of extra beta
Approach: As described above but follow the switchbacks all the way up till you hit the wall, route starts about 20 ft right of the huge vegetated right facing corner/ramp.

Pitch 2: The two "small trees" mentioned have been cut down, look for the bolt line out left of the right slanting feature and not the two remaining trees straight above. May 6, 2017
New Jersey
Mulch   New Jersey
Poison ivy at the base of the route appears to be dead. It's still very much alive. Watch out for it. The poison ivy is all the little twigs sticking up out of the ground just to the left of the start of the route. Praying my rope didn't land in it. May 9, 2017
cdec   SLC, UT
I was up there on 5/28 and the base is free of PI. The twigs to the climbers left of the route are scrub oak not Poison Ivy. May 30, 2017
Question: I'm just starting to build my own rack. I only have singles of older style camalot sizes .4,.5,.75, doubles of 1 & 2, and a single 3. Just how run out will I be without smaller sizes? What difficulty/length would the run out sections be, more or less? Thanks for any help you can offer! Oct 5, 2017
Why don't you go ahead and ask this same question on every easy multipitch in BCC?

Kinda a dumb question really. Read the route description. Oct 5, 2017
J Saarela
Park City
J Saarela   Park City
Of the green c3 to red c4 I carried up, the only cam placed was a red c3 on P5. The P5 crack takes smaller (BD 6-9ish) nuts pretty well with great stances to place.

If you're comfortable with a bit of runout (~15-20 feet between bolts on 5.5 moves), bring those stoppers, but you might not need the c4's.

You can't see the first bolt of P3 from the top of P2. Just go straight up from the anchor, a small ledge hides it from below. Oct 22, 2017
D. M. Cole
Northern Utah
D. M. Cole   Northern Utah
GPS coordinates: 40.620713,-111.746642. If referencing cdec's photo of Itchy Scratchy and Road to Recovery, note that it was shot from the opposite side of the canyon and that you will not see anything above the 5th pitch on approach.

Total of two bolts low on 5th pitch. Only higher on 5th pitch did the route feel like R without a couple of nuts or smaller cams.

Contacted a bit of poison ivy, despite avoiding all things green around the base. Apr 28, 2018
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
This is a fun easy multi-pitch. I only found a handful of gear placements on pitches 1-4 and most were within a few feet of a bolt. I think the only gear I placed was between .2 x4 and .75 c4 as well as a few small nuts. Don't bother with the #1, larger nuts, or doubles of anything. I think I'd combine pitches 1 and 2, and 4 and 5 if I did it again to speed things up. May 1, 2018
Janna Thompson
Salt Lake City, UT
Janna Thompson   Salt Lake City, UT
Easiest approach is to take the challenge buttress trail and take the first right hand trail (towards narcolepsy wall). You follow that until it starts to trend up (south) and then stay on the trail heading up the gully. This is the same trail you’d use to get to firefly.

Also the poison ivy is very much alive and all over the base of the climb. Watch out! Jul 20, 2018
cdec   SLC, UT
Was up in the area on 7/20 so stopped by to check out the base. I found it to be hard packed and PI free. Added some photos for clarification! Plenty of room! Jul 21, 2018