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Routes in Strone Crag

Akahi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bad Monsters (Unknown) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Cat-O-Nine-Tails S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cersei T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cost of Business T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Creaking Plank S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Firefly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gods and Monsters S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Itchy Scratchy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kiss the Sky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Le Rap Et Tap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Mad Calf Disease T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Major Tom T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Minotaur T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Bad Luck T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nimbus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Habits Die Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Orbital Decay S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rear-View Mirrors S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Red Gorilla S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Road to Recovery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Space Cadet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Starstruck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tyrion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wealth of Nations T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: JS, Steve Amter, June 2015
Page Views: 324 total · 8/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 16, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Great exposure, tricky, but well protected (almost gym bolted), Cat-O-Nine-Tails clears the overhang just left of Creaking Plank, then moves left and up an obvious bolt-protected arête. The flogging consists of two distinct cruxes, but with a no-hands rest in between. Apprehensive folks might want to use a well-slung finger-size cam to reach the first bolt on the arête.

Location

Approach by walking out the ledge system to the start of Creaking Plank, then downclimbing 10 or so feet (very easy) to a belay ledge with a bolt (same belay as for Orbital Decay). Take the bolt line on the right; the left set of bolts is Orbital.

Protection

Ten draws. Consider a finger-size cam and long sling to get to the first bolt on the arête. Lower from chains with fixed biners.

Photos

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The extent of my involvement in this 1st ascent was to be a dedicated belayer and to hang the crap out it when following and cleaning. Its a hard, technical route with several good moves, some which require body tension. Aug 3, 2015
Steve Miller
West Jordan
  5.11d
Steve Miller   West Jordan
  5.11d
Crux is the arete move near the corner shared with orbital decay. It's about 10.c other than the 4 move crux. Not too exciting. Sep 26, 2018

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