Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: JS, Steve Amter, June 2015
Page Views: 330 total · 8/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 16, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Great exposure, tricky, but well protected (almost gym bolted), Cat-O-Nine-Tails clears the overhang just left of Creaking Plank, then moves left and up an obvious bolt-protected arête. The flogging consists of two distinct cruxes, but with a no-hands rest in between. Apprehensive folks might want to use a well-slung finger-size cam to reach the first bolt on the arête.

Location

Approach by walking out the ledge system to the start of Creaking Plank, then downclimbing 10 or so feet (very easy) to a belay ledge with a bolt (same belay as for Orbital Decay). Take the bolt line on the right; the left set of bolts is Orbital.

Protection

Ten draws. Consider a finger-size cam and long sling to get to the first bolt on the arête. Lower from chains with fixed biners.

Photos

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The extent of my involvement in this 1st ascent was to be a dedicated belayer and to hang the crap out it when following and cleaning. Its a hard, technical route with several good moves, some which require body tension. Aug 3, 2015
Steve Miller
West Jordan
  5.11d
Steve Miller   West Jordan
  5.11d
Crux is the arete move near the corner shared with orbital decay. It's about 10.c other than the 4 move crux. Not too exciting. Sep 26, 2018