Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Fowler, John Steiger, Sept. 2012
Page Views: 235 total · 3/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 8, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

"Look over yonder, got to get away" (Hendrix). Mr. Bad Luck takes the attractive overhanging hand crack and largely bolt-protected headwall high on Strone Crag, above Red Gorilla and left of the crux pitch of Kiss the Sky. The climbing on the crux second pitch is a bit contrived and may have some minor looseness, but it provides some great exposure and, with more traffic, may reach three stars. The first pitch is worthwhile in its own right particularly for 5.9 leaders; rather than doing the second pitch of Mr. Bad Luck, it'’s an easy rap to back to the ground or continue up via Firefly (5.6).

(1) Start up the first pitch of Firefly, climbing past that route's first three bolts. About 15 feet above the third bold, traverse left on casual terrain and up to a large ledge with chains. Walk left past the chains on the ledge for another 15 feet to a right-facing dihedral capped by a small roof, above which is a bolt. Go up the dihedral a ways to enjoyable face climbing past the bolt and then another to Brunch Ledge. 120'’ 5.9.

(2) Jam the obvious overhanging hand crack until possible to move right and up clipping three bolts en route to the crux. Above, either step right to get some gear (and a rest) or swallow hard and punch it to the last bolt and one last set of difficult moves to chains. This pitch was bolted to avoid two sets of huge loose blocks; don'’t be tempted to go yonder lest you risk devastatingly bad luck. 70' 5.11.

N.B. There is some chance that the hand crack had been climbed before the FA posted here. Someone had tapped into the rock what appears to be "11b?" just off Brunch Ledge near the start of the crack. Putting aside my (hostile) view to such a practice, I don’'t think this means that any part of the line had been climbed because of the amount of cleaning required, the still-existing death block if one doesn'’t step right to the first bolt on the headwall, and the on-size nature of the crack. But hey, if someone wants to step forward....

Location

Start on Firefly. Descent: Lower or rappel from chains back to Brunch Ledge. Two more rappels from chain anchors reaches the ground, but if you have a 70 meter rope one rap will do it.

Protection

Trad rack, one each from small brass/steel (offsets useful) to a no.1 camalot; two no.2 camalots for the hand crack.

Photos

zoso  
1st pitch can be easily TRed from Firefly anchors and is good entertainment on the way down. Didn't lead it, but 5.9 seemed a bit sandbagged--on lead anyway. I'll give it 9+.

Good pitch. Classic BCC: Foot holds appear right when you need them, but just barely... Jul 30, 2015
Lotapowder
Sandy
 
Lotapowder   Sandy
 
I agree with Zoso, the 1st pitch might be 5.9 on TR which is what we did, but to call that 5.9 to lead is the definition of Sandbag... IMO I don't know why the FA'er didn't just bolt it as it is fun to climb, but could get someone hurt if you blew it as it doesn't take good gear in the corner. The 2nd pitch has the best handcrack in BCC for about 10 feet, then traverses to a chossy overhang. Won't be back on this one... Sep 6, 2015