Type: Sport, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Antoine Savelli & Teri Savelli, 1986
Page Views: 544 total · 8/month
Shared By: Antoine Savelli on Jul 26, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the first multi-pitch bolted route put up in 1986. It was very controversial at that time.

It is left of Hot Wee Wee and right of Dr. Gizmo.

First pitch: climb dead center on slab, clipping 3 bolts, climb over a roof, 6c+ or 5.11d passing a fixed pin to belay.

The second pitch goes diagonally left and upwards towards first crux at 8a or 5.13b and then to an easier crux. It is all on bolts at 7a+/7b or 5.12b/c and goes to double bolt anchors.

Third pitch: traverse right to a 6b or 5.11a move, then straight to a short 6a or 5.10b traverse on some bolts and natural pro, finishing on buckets: it is beautiful and exposed.

Location

This is on the left Main Ophir Wall, right of Dr. Gizmo and left of Hot Wee Wee.

Protection

10 clips, bring a small single rack from RPs to #3 Friend.

Photos

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