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Routes in Main Wall

Black Primo T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Blue Moon T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Cheeseburger in Paradise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Comes a Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dingomaniaque S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Dr. Gizmo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Emotional Rescue T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Feeling Edgy T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honey Pot Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horse Play T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Wee Wee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Another 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Morning Glory T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Opharian Complex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Post Office Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainbow Warrior S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Savelli Express T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Total Recall S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
White Salamander S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Y-Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bill Kees, James Hebert
Page Views: 1,648 total, 13/month
Shared By: Tristan Perry on Aug 29, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This consists of steep and spicy face climbing on traditional gear. No walk in the park, this climb is pumpy and committing from bottom to top. Tricky, balancy climbing with few places for gear leads to an awkward crack higher. Cheeseburger gives you the classic Ophir experience of making hard moves facing a good-sized fall. Some might find it hard not to overgrip, and as such, it's as much of a mental challenge as it is a physical exercise. I'd say 5.10 doesn't get much better than this for quality and experience.

It must be said that Ophir in general is stacked with brilliant 5.10 climbs.

Location

This is center-right of Ophir Wall.

Protection

Nuts and cams, maybe tricams, too.

Photos

Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10d PG13
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10d PG13
Yet another desperate, potentially dangerous Ophir start. Forget the tricams, bring some toilet paper.

I'm sayin' PG-13 rating is jack serious. There's some real potential for real carnage down low if'n you're not half proficient at setting small, wonky, shallow gear. (Think a red C3 in a scandalous, flaring crack.) That said, the crux is protected fantastic by the baddest, most textbook #2 Camalot placement on the planet. Crammit and jammit; you could drop a Cadillac on that thing.

Then--SPOILER ALERT!--move out left side of the start of the Cheesburger crack for some of the most awesome/reckless/greasy lay-a-ways until you can slot your right hand blindly into that seam where the crack opens up. You're 15ft above that #2, Shugha. Better hope you brought that 0.4 C4. Or maybe a faded, yellow Alien. Or a AT LEAST a good cardiologist.

Plug, and now send 5.9 for top out glory. Laugh as your follower shouts "NO WAY! NOOO WAAAAY!" through the crux sequence. Life is joy. Jul 30, 2012