Hot Wee Wee
Avg: 2.9 from 32 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||[Henry Barber, 1973]|
|Page Views:||6,127 total · 39/month|
|Shared By:||Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is the giant, left-facing corner that splits the center of the Ophir Wall. It can also be located by following the grassy slope below the wall to its highest point. The first pitch is barely 5th class and many parties do not rope up for it. Much cleaner and straightforward than P.O. Crack.
1) 100 feet. 5.2? Start in corner, head up and right on easy ledges. End pitch 10 or 20 ft. below a blank looking left facing corner. No fixed anchors, a few different cracks are available.
2) 150 feet. 5.9 Face climb out left from the blank corner into a small alcove, exit alcove up and right and continue up the corner. About 30 ft. above the alcove 2 options exist. One is to traverse right to easier ground with rope drag potential. The other is to stick with corner. This is a long pitch which ends on a spacious ledge about 40 ft. left of the giant, left-facing corner.
3) 110 feet. 5.7 Climb corner to ledge with belay out left.
4) 100 feet. 5.7 Continue up corner to ledge with belay out left.
5) 60 feet. 5.9 Continue up corner with a short offwidth/chimney section to the end of the corner.
Traverse left 30 feet to anchor and rap back through your last couple belay stances (you will be rapping over Black Primo, 5.9R). When you have reached the giant ledge which is the end of pitch 2, I would recommend continuing out right (climber's) and down another 40 feet to a bolted anchor that is not visible from above. This will take you to 2 double rope rappels via new chain anchors. If done this way, you will end up a couple hundred feet right of the start of the route.