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Routes in Main Wall

Black Primo T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Blue Moon T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Cheeseburger in Paradise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Comes a Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dingomaniaque S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Dr. Gizmo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Emotional Rescue T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Feeling Edgy T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honey Pot Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horse Play T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Wee Wee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Another 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Morning Glory T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Opharian Complex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Post Office Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainbow Warrior S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Savelli Express T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Total Recall S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
White Salamander S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Y-Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: [Henry Barber, 1973]
Page Views: 6,149 total · 38/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the giant, left-facing corner that splits the center of the Ophir Wall. It can also be located by following the grassy slope below the wall to its highest point. The first pitch is barely 5th class and many parties do not rope up for it. Much cleaner and straightforward than P.O. Crack.

1) 100 feet. 5.2? Start in corner, head up and right on easy ledges. End pitch 10 or 20 ft. below a blank looking left facing corner. No fixed anchors, a few different cracks are available.

2) 150 feet. 5.9 Face climb out left from the blank corner into a small alcove, exit alcove up and right and continue up the corner. About 30 ft. above the alcove 2 options exist. One is to traverse right to easier ground with rope drag potential. The other is to stick with corner. This is a long pitch which ends on a spacious ledge about 40 ft. left of the giant, left-facing corner.

3) 110 feet. 5.7 Climb corner to ledge with belay out left.

4) 100 feet. 5.7 Continue up corner to ledge with belay out left.

5) 60 feet. 5.9 Continue up corner with a short offwidth/chimney section to the end of the corner.

Traverse left 30 feet to anchor and rap back through your last couple belay stances (you will be rapping over Black Primo, 5.9R). When you have reached the giant ledge which is the end of pitch 2, I would recommend continuing out right (climber's) and down another 40 feet to a bolted anchor that is not visible from above. This will take you to 2 double rope rappels via new chain anchors. If done this way, you will end up a couple hundred feet right of the start of the route.

Protection

Double set of cams, set of stoppers, some long runners, one optional big piece.

Photos

Fritz Nuffer
Durango, CO
Fritz Nuffer   Durango, CO
Carried a #4.5 and never placed it. You can sling chockstones on the last pitch, whose abundant face holds render it no harder than 5.8.

Ditto the rap beta: instead of rapping off the slung flake at the top of P2, trend right around an arete to new chain anchors. On the next rap, you can either stop after 80' to mediocre bolts and tat, or continue another 50' down and right to bolts and rings. Jul 3, 2017
SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
  5.9 PG13
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
  5.9 PG13
Wow exciting climb lots of fun though. It does require 2 ropes for the rappel. Jun 11, 2014
Dan.Schultz
SW Colorado
Dan.Schultz   SW Colorado
Are double ropes required for the rap? Nov 23, 2013
darren
Durango, Colorado
darren   Durango, Colorado
On what is described as pitch 4 above, there was a wide slot with quite a few rocks that looked ready to fall if they were touched. Try and avoid jamming yourself in there, some of the rocks were pretty big. Aug 18, 2012
ozman
CO / NM
ozman   CO / NM
Really only one single move of 5.9 climbing in my opinion. Nice long route; it's nice to get off the ground for a change. Aug 24, 2011
Andrew McLean
Colorado
  5.9
Andrew McLean   Colorado
  5.9
If you only have time for one route on Ophir Wall this is the one!

#5 Camalot was "nice to have" for the p5 crux. Not to worry thought P5 is NOT and off width climb and it is NOT a chimney climb. For us it seemed like technical stemming up a corner with a wide crack that only takes big gear near the top.

The P2 5.9 was the technical crux of the route. Excellent 5.9 face climbing on featured and well protected face.

Get on it! Jun 20, 2010
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.9
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.9
My partner and I did this route in three LONG pitches from the base to the final anchor cable with a 70m rope. I built an anchor on the second pitch after climbing over the roof. There are a lot of bolted belays (and rap stations) so it's best to have a plan before starting. Jun 24, 2008
Victor McConnell
Golden, CO
Victor McConnell   Golden, CO
Great climb. This was the first route I did in the Telluride area. And it was typical of everything I found climbing in this area to be: diverse, challenging, packed with history and situated in a beautiful setting. And it was a rare day in that we ran into some other climbers (Paul Ross, who was climbing the route with his son). The final 5.9 offwidth is pretty stout. There is also a 5.9(R?) face climbing variation on the face to the left called Black Primo. Oct 20, 2007

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