Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: [Henry Barber, 1973]
Page Views: 10,775 total · 47/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is the giant, left-facing corner that splits the center of the Ophir Wall. It can also be located by following the grassy slope below the wall to its highest point. The first pitch is barely 5th Class, and many parties do not rope up for it. It is much cleaner and straightforward than P.O. Crack.

1) Start in corner, head up and right on easy ledges. End pitch 10 or 20 feet below a blank looking, left-facing corner. There is no fixed anchors, and a few different cracks are available, 100 feet, 5.2?

2) Face climb out left from the blank corner into a small alcove, exit alcove up and right, and continue up the corner. About 30 feet above the alcove, 2 options exist: one is to traverse right to easier ground with rope drag potential. The other is to stick with corner. This is a long pitch which ends on a spacious ledge about 40 feet left of the giant, left-facing corner, 150 feet, 5.9.

3) Climb corner to ledge with belay out left, 110 feet. 5.7.

4) Continue up corner to ledge with belay out left, 100 feet. 5.7.

5) Continue up corner with a short offwidth/chimney section to the end of the corner, 60 feet. 5.9.

Traverse left 20 feet to anchor, and rap back through your last couple belay stances (you'll be rapping over Black Primo, 5.9 R). When you have reached the giant ledge which is the end of pitch 2, I would recommend continuing out right (climber's) and down another 40 feet to a bolted anchor that is not visible from above. This will take you to new chain anchors which you can either do (1) 2 double rope rappels (2) 4 70m rope rappels (just enough). If done this way, you'll end up a couple hundred feet right of the start of the route.

Protection Suggest change

Double set of cams, set of stoppers, some long runners, one optional big piece.