Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: [Henry Barber, 1973]
Page Views: 6,945 total · 40/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

37 Opinions

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This is the giant, left-facing corner that splits the center of the Ophir Wall. It can also be located by following the grassy slope below the wall to its highest point. The first pitch is barely 5th class and many parties do not rope up for it. Much cleaner and straightforward than P.O. Crack.

1) 100 feet. 5.2? Start in corner, head up and right on easy ledges. End pitch 10 or 20 ft. below a blank looking left facing corner. No fixed anchors, a few different cracks are available.

2) 150 feet. 5.9 Face climb out left from the blank corner into a small alcove, exit alcove up and right and continue up the corner. About 30 ft. above the alcove 2 options exist. One is to traverse right to easier ground with rope drag potential. The other is to stick with corner. This is a long pitch which ends on a spacious ledge about 40 ft. left of the giant, left-facing corner.

3) 110 feet. 5.7 Climb corner to ledge with belay out left.

4) 100 feet. 5.7 Continue up corner to ledge with belay out left.

5) 60 feet. 5.9 Continue up corner with a short offwidth/chimney section to the end of the corner.

Traverse left 30 feet to anchor and rap back through your last couple belay stances (you will be rapping over Black Primo, 5.9R). When you have reached the giant ledge which is the end of pitch 2, I would recommend continuing out right (climber's) and down another 40 feet to a bolted anchor that is not visible from above. This will take you to 2 double rope rappels via new chain anchors. If done this way, you will end up a couple hundred feet right of the start of the route.


Double set of cams, set of stoppers, some long runners, one optional big piece.


Victor McConnell
Golden, CO
Victor McConnell   Golden, CO
Great climb. This was the first route I did in the Telluride area. And it was typical of everything I found climbing in this area to be: diverse, challenging, packed with history and situated in a beautiful setting. And it was a rare day in that we ran into some other climbers (Paul Ross, who was climbing the route with his son). The final 5.9 offwidth is pretty stout. There is also a 5.9(R?) face climbing variation on the face to the left called Black Primo. Oct 20, 2007
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
My partner and I did this route in three LONG pitches from the base to the final anchor cable with a 70m rope. I built an anchor on the second pitch after climbing over the roof. There are a lot of bolted belays (and rap stations) so it's best to have a plan before starting. Jun 24, 2008
Andrew McLean
Eldoorado Springs, CO
Andrew McLean   Eldoorado Springs, CO
If you only have time for one route on Ophir Wall this is the one!

#5 Camalot was "nice to have" for the p5 crux. Not to worry thought P5 is NOT and off width climb and it is NOT a chimney climb. For us it seemed like technical stemming up a corner with a wide crack that only takes big gear near the top.

The P2 5.9 was the technical crux of the route. Excellent 5.9 face climbing on featured and well protected face.

Get on it! Jun 20, 2010
ozman   CO / NM
Really only one single move of 5.9 climbing in my opinion. Nice long route; it's nice to get off the ground for a change. Aug 24, 2011
Durango, Colorado
darren   Durango, Colorado
On what is described as pitch 4 above, there was a wide slot with quite a few rocks that looked ready to fall if they were touched. Try and avoid jamming yourself in there, some of the rocks were pretty big. Aug 18, 2012
SW Colorado
Dan.Schultz   SW Colorado
Are double ropes required for the rap? Nov 23, 2013
SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
  5.9 PG13
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
  5.9 PG13
Wow exciting climb lots of fun though. It does require 2 ropes for the rappel. Jun 11, 2014
Fritz Nuffer
The Western Slope
Fritz Nuffer   The Western Slope
Carried a #4.5 and never placed it. You can sling chockstones on the last pitch, whose abundant face holds render it no harder than 5.8.

Ditto the rap beta: instead of rapping off the slung flake at the top of P2, trend right around an arete to new chain anchors. On the next rap, you can either stop after 80' to mediocre bolts and tat, or continue another 50' down and right to bolts and rings. Jul 3, 2017
Spencer Coon
Barcelona, ES
Spencer Coon   Barcelona, ES
Awesome route! Mostly cruiser with good to great gear. The first part of 5.9 P2 (the face left of the corner) has some thinner gear but not too dicey. I recommend continuing corner up and left when you are approaching huge ledge. You can then either belay from slung flake or continue on up and over another ledge to a good crack where you can make an anchor with a 0.3 and 0.4. The bolted belay is pretty far right and hidden, so I imagine rope drag would be significant, and doing corner roof direct / left has some fun moves. There is a slung block in the 5.9 last pitch OW, but you can get good gear deep in the crack with a 4.5 and/or a 0.5 in a smaller crack. Jul 10, 2018