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Routes in Main Wall

Black Primo T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Blue Moon T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Cheeseburger in Paradise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Comes a Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dingomaniaque S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Dr. Gizmo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Emotional Rescue T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Feeling Edgy T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honey Pot Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horse Play T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Wee Wee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Another 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Morning Glory T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Opharian Complex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Post Office Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainbow Warrior S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Savelli Express T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Total Recall S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
White Salamander S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Y-Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Doug Berry, ground up, hand drilling
Page Views: 962 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tristan Perry on Aug 29, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great sport climb. Gain the arete (way hard!) and climb straight up making the crux on tenuous, reachy moves on perfectly small crimps to a thank God jug. Then stem acrobatically to the chimney feature, and finally a run up the slab to the anchors. This was impressively bolted on the lead.

Location

This is to the left of P.O. Crack.

Protection

Quickdraws, 4 or 6 bolts.

Photos

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perrotr Perrot
Telluride
perrotr Perrot   Telluride
The bolts are where you need them, in the Ophir style. I think it's 5 or 6 bolts for a 60-70 foot climb. All the business is between bolts 2-5. May 26, 2017
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
  5.12-
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
  5.12-
Oh, bolted on lead. I can see now, why the bolts not at the clipping stances. Kinda sucks. Like a lot of routes at Ophir, this one needs a rebuild. Get with the modern world, man! Jun 12, 2011
Thanks for the correction, Brent. I've changed the FA info above. Sep 16, 2007
FA. Doug Berry, ground up, hand drilling. The lower part of the climb feel down. It is now easier to climb up, clip 2nd bolt then go down/over to corner on right and up, staying at 11+. The moves going from second bolt over right to arete will increase grade. Sep 7, 2007