Avg: 3.8 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Antoine Savelli in 2003|
|Page Views:||2,777 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||Tristan Perry on Aug 16, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a full length route up one of the proudest sections of the Ophir Wall. The pitches are well-thought-out and although it is possible to rap with just one 60 meter rope from bomber bolted anchors, having two ropes might be a good idea considering the area's reputation. The protection is mostly good, with a smattering of bolts on several pitches. Actually, some pitches have no bolts and some are exclusively bolt protected, notably the crux pitch. All the pitches except one are "moderate" and it is possible to pull through the crux pitch at A0. This is one of the best routes in the Telluride region, with consistent quality, length, and stunning position to its credit. The crux pitch is HARD for those who hope to free it. (Has this even had a second free ascent yet?) This route needs to see more traffic, so...get on it!!
It starts well to the right of the Post Office Crack, maybe 50 yards down from Sweet RPs.
The first pitch (5.11a) is short but fierce, protected by a few bolts and trad gear, with a funky crux sequence pulling through a V-notch in a small ceiling.
The second pitch is a 5.8 hand crack that leads to the Tennis Shoe Traverse ledge above. The first and second pitches could be linked easily.
The third pitch is airy and scary! Solid 5.9 climbing up laser cracks on a long, awkwardly slanting arete/corner moves straight above to a bolted anchor. Route finding may be tricky here, so watch out or you might not get where you want to be!
The fourth pitch is the money pitch...It's essentially a sport climb that busts through an intimidating series of roofs at 5.13a. You may be thinking...I'm cruising this! But the crux at the last roof is really some hard cranking, indeed! Fingers of steel may be the ticket here.
The 5th pitch features sparsely bolted face climbing, with little in the way of gear placements. Awesome climbing, but heads up!
The 6th pitch is another bolted pitch, probably 5.10a and really devious. It ascends the well defined arete, for another fantastic ropelength.
The 7th pitch kicks back to a lesser angle, so you know you're getting quite a ways off the deck. The rock quality deteriorates considerably here, on blocky 5.7ish ground.
The last pitch is a scramble to the top of the technical difficulties of the route, ending at trees.
This is a phenomenal climb, and a visionary effort for the first ascentionist. When more people climb this, it will surely get a reputation as a MUST DO climb at Ophir. This was put up in 2003 by local guide Antoine Savelli.
As a last word, be careful alert on the way up AND on the way down for the possiblity of falling rocks - they're everywhere and all it takes is one...have fun and be safe!
LocationLooking at the Ophir Wall, it climbs the right side of the wall, through a huge roof system on clean (for Ophir!) rock.
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