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Routes in Main Wall

Black Primo T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Blue Moon T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Cheeseburger in Paradise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Comes a Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dingomaniaque S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Dr. Gizmo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Emotional Rescue T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Feeling Edgy T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honey Pot Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horse Play T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Wee Wee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Another 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Morning Glory T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Opharian Complex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Post Office Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainbow Warrior S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Savelli Express T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Total Recall S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
White Salamander S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Y-Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Bill Kees
Page Views: 68 total, 11/month
Shared By: perrotr Perrot on May 20, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the crack system/gully immediately left of Crescent Loon. There is no defined crux, but there are some moves in between gear placements.

There are two bolts on the left at the start that you can use (harder start) or keep it trad on an easier start to the right.

It's a good route, worthwhile, but Ophir has better moderates to offer. My buddy and I came to the crag after a spring snowstorm, and this was the only dry route we could find.

Location

Start in between Total Recall (5.11+) and Crescent Loon (5.8 up big gully with black rock). Climb the crack system/gully immediately left of Crescent Loon.

Protection

I brought doubles up to 0.75. I only brought singles in #1, #2, and #3, and would have liked doubles in those. Don't be afraid to do get creative and do some gardening/digging for placements. I slung a horn with a double-length on a runout easier section up high.

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