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Routes in Main Wall

Black Primo T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Blue Moon T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Cheeseburger in Paradise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Comes a Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dingomaniaque S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Dr. Gizmo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Emotional Rescue T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Feeling Edgy T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honey Pot Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horse Play T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Wee Wee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Another 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Morning Glory T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Opharian Complex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Post Office Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainbow Warrior S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Savelli Express T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Total Recall S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
White Salamander S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Y-Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown, approx. 1972 ??
Page Views: 1,698 total · 10/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a good landmark for orienting yourself when climbing on the Ophir Wall. The route follows the prominent chimney system which is a few hundred feet right of the center of the Ophir Wall and is almost directly uphill from the Ophir Post Office - hence the name. (But do not approach from the post office, the house behind it is privately owned. The parking pullout is a couple hundred feet left, west, of the post office.) Pitch one is clean, long and good and many parties climb just this pitch. The upper pitches wander a bit and go through some loose blocks that are a little spooky. Wear a helmet.

1) Climb cracks and chimney for 150 feet. A short squeeze section at about 80 feet is probably the crux of the entire climb. After exiting the chimney an anchor can be found out right on the large ledge. If continuing up, arranging a belay at the base of the next crack would be advisable. Anchors may have been flattened by rockfall.

2) 120 feet. Climb a good handcrack to easier ground and up into a large roof which is easier than it looks. Continue through some looseness to some old webbing found in a corner which can easily be backed up (or ignored) with some cams.

3) 100 feet. Continue up the corner and through a short offwidth/chimney section. This pitch seems to have a few options but you are aiming for the larger, right-facing corner up higher. There is a large slung block out left at the base of said corner.

4) 100 feet. Climb up the large, corner system. The easiest/most obvious line goes up the face about 5-10 feet out right from the corner. Pitch ends at a slung tree.

The first three pitches all have some 5.8. The fourth is probably 5.7. To descend, traverse 80 feet right (might want to belay) to another anchor and follow bolted rap stations back to the ground. There are a couple different options. 4 raps in all, 2 ropes are needed. Great way to get off the ground but the climbing goes downhill after the first pitch and a half. The first pitch could be used to access the Y-crack by traversing left on the Tennis Shoe Traverse.

Protection

1 set of stoppers and a double set of cams - a bigger piece may be helpful but not necessary - some long runners.

Photos

I thought the crux of this route was turning the triple roofs 3/4 of the way up the route. These roofs are sunlit in the photo. Jun 26, 2008
This is a total choss pile with tones of loose rock. Do not get on this route if someone is already on it. There multiple loose blocks that are begging to be nudged off onto someone's head. Sep 13, 2008

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