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Routes in Main Wall

Black Primo T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Blue Moon T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Cheeseburger in Paradise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Comes a Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dingomaniaque S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Dr. Gizmo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Emotional Rescue T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Feeling Edgy T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honey Pot Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horse Play T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Wee Wee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Another 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Morning Glory T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Opharian Complex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Post Office Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainbow Warrior S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Savelli Express T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Total Recall S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
White Salamander S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Y-Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Kees
Page Views: 952 total, 7/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on Aug 4, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This ascends past the first set of bolts immediately right of the Dingomaniaque roofs. True to form here, the bolts protect the hard parts where no natural gear is available, and the rest is up to you. Face climb easy and occasionaly protected face for forty or fifty feet to a notch, where the roof breaks into more moderate terrain. Clip your first bolt, and move up steep incut holds through another bolt, a blue Metolius, and three more to reach the anchors. This has great movement on bomber stone!

Location

It is on the Weeping Wall.

Protection

A small rack of thin gear and draws.

Photos

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eric owen
Estes Park, Colorado
eric owen   Estes Park, Colorado
The description is right on. For many of the holds, don't pull straight down, you will be changing your body position to a bunch to pull on the good incuts. Would give it solid 10b. Sep 2, 2015