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Routes in Main Wall

Black Primo T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Blue Moon T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Cheeseburger in Paradise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Comes a Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dingomaniaque S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Dr. Gizmo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Emotional Rescue T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Feeling Edgy T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honey Pot Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horse Play T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Wee Wee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Another 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Morning Glory T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Opharian Complex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Post Office Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainbow Warrior S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Savelli Express T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Total Recall S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
White Salamander S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Y-Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Lynn Hill & John Long
Page Views: 1,864 total · 12/month
Shared By: Max schon on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This climb starts on top of a fourth class/easy fifth class ramp on the left side of the main wall. Either belay from the ground for the first pitch, or have the belayer join the leader at the top of the ramp.
P1: Fingers locks and crimpers will get you through the crux of the first pitch, which is at the start. Hands to the belay. 5.10b
P2: Great pitch, with a spicy step out right to a bolt on a varnished blank looking section. Continue up through very fun climbing.
Its possible to combine P1 and P2 with a 60 meter rope if you belayer is on the top of the ramp. Rappel route.

Protection

Single set of cams, nuts, and runners.

Photos

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It is easier to make 3 rappels from fixed stations with a 60m rope, down and trending to the right, with the last over the roof in the center of the wall where you started. The last rappel is short by 5-10 ft. with a really easy downclimb. May 29, 2007

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