Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft
FA: FA: Henry Barber, 1973, FFA: Antoine Savelli, Teri Savelli, and Scott Kennett, 1985
Page Views: 799 total · 12/month
Shared By: Antoine Savelli on Jul 26, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

This was first put up in 1973 by Henry Barber, it was known back then as the Aid Crack. Then it was freed by Antoine in 1985. Stunning! Use tennis shoe traverse for a quick approach, or Crescent Loon, 5a or 5.8 to big ledge for first pitch.

The second pitch is 7c/7c+ or 5.12d. It is splitter crack on a mirror wall, unbelievably beautiful rock. It has some difficult crack-climbing with a face crux and more but much easier 6c or 5.11c thin hands to double bolted belay left.

Rappel 140 feet.

Location

This is on the Main Ophir Wall on the the mirror-like Neanderthal Wall. It is a must do!

Protection

10 clips, RPs to double set of Friends up to #3 Friend.

Photos

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Bryan Gilmore
FLG, AZ
  5.12d
Bryan Gilmore   FLG, AZ
  5.12d
Don't underestimate the "much easier" .11c thin hands to the top. I was fighting a good pump up there, and it didn't feel "easy"! Awesome, easily one of the best pitches in SO. CO. Mar 31, 2014