For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Wall

Black Primo T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Blue Moon T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Cheeseburger in Paradise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Comes a Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dingomaniaque S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Dr. Gizmo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Emotional Rescue T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Feeling Edgy T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honey Pot Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horse Play T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Wee Wee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Another 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Morning Glory T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Opharian Complex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Post Office Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainbow Warrior S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Savelli Express T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Total Recall S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
White Salamander S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Y-Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft
FA: FA: Henry Barber, 1973, FFA: Antoine Savelli, Teri Savelli, and Scott Kennett, 1985
Page Views: 702 total · 12/month
Shared By: Antoine Savelli on Jul 26, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description [Suggest Change]

This was first put up in 1973 by Henry Barber, it was known back then as the Aid Crack. Then it was freed by Antoine in 1985. Stunning! Use tennis shoe traverse for a quick approach, or Crescent Loon, 5a or 5.8 to big ledge for first pitch.

The second pitch is 7c/7c+ or 5.12d. It is splitter crack on a mirror wall, unbelievably beautiful rock. It has some difficult crack-climbing with a face crux and more but much easier 6c or 5.11c thin hands to double bolted belay left.

Rappel 140 feet.

Location [Suggest Change]

This is on the Main Ophir Wall on the the mirror-like Neanderthal Wall. It is a must do!

Protection [Suggest Change]

10 clips, RPs to double set of Friends up to #3 Friend.

Photos

- No Photos -
Bryan Gilmore
New England, Hell
  5.12d
Bryan Gilmore   New England, Hell
  5.12d
Don't underestimate the "much easier" .11c thin hands to the top. I was fighting a good pump up there, and it didn't feel "easy"! Awesome, easily one of the best pitches in SO. CO. Mar 31, 2014

More About Morning Glory

Printer-Friendly