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Black Primo T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Blue Moon T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chameleon, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Cheeseburger in Paradise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Comes a Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dingomaniaque S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Dr. Gizmo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Emotional Rescue T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Feeling Edgy T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honey Pot Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horse Play T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hot Wee Wee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just Another 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Morning Glory T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Opharian Complex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Post Office Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainbow Warrior S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Savelli Express T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Total Recall S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
White Salamander S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Y-Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Antoine Savelli, early 1990s
Page Views: 2,379 total, 19/month
Shared By: Tristan Perry on Aug 28, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Wow, what an awesome route! This climb just doesn't let up, featuring sustained power-endurance climbing on a gently overhanging face of gorgeous orange granite. Start on a ledge a few meters above the ground. You might want your belayer to be anchored if the leader is not absolutely confident at the grade. Hard, technical moves begin right off the ground. Breathe a sigh of relief when you clip the first and second bolts - after that, you're safe enough. Power through the long crux section above, using crimps and sidepulls. Climb like a reptile and you'll be fine. This is a very demanding lead - quite the testpiece for the grade!

Location

It is immediately to the right of the classic corner feature of Hot Wee Wee.

Protection

6 bolts, anchors

Photos

Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
  5.12b
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
  5.12b
This route had zero chalk on it. It made figuring out the beta pretty epic. This is one of the best sport routes I have done in a while. More people should want to climb this spectacular pitch. It is 6 bolts, a stick clip is useful. Remember to climb hard. Jul 7, 2013
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12b
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.12b
Great route on semi-technical crimps/sidepulls/slimpers! Surprised to find this one here, it was definitely 4 stars! Jun 20, 2009