All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (San… > Mount Lemmon (Cat… > 2 - Bear Canyon > Chimney Rock
Avg: 2.6 from 5 votes
Routes in Chimney Rock
|8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X|
|Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||582 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||Joe Lee on Nov 18, 2012|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionGreat, but overlooked, three pitch route up the center of Chimney Rock. A little bit of everything. Heady climbing at a moderate grade with tricky gear at times. Mostly good rock . . . Follow the topo from Squeezing the Lemmon II.
Pitch 1 starts below a U shaped ledge with a small tree (same for FIUTT). If you want to protect the initial moves (which I recommend) you can tie your shoes to the end of your rope and throw them over the tree. We had to use a nearby branch to pull the end down. From the tree make committing moves left and up. At the bong climb left into a box formation. I recommend belaying in the corner at the start of pitch 2 instead of the top of the column per the topo.
Pitch 2 ascends a step corner crack system. At the roof traverse left into a funky slot and shoot straight up to a depressed ledge.
Finish on Stripper direct. Move right and up past a small roof with a crack in it. Finish higher up with yet another steep section. Short pitch.
LocationThe start is towards the middle section of Chimney Rock. You're going to look for a low ledge with a small tree.
Descend by down climbing the back side. Somewhat tricky. Spot your partner. Once on the ground head right (if you face the rock). When you reach the end of the formation you can scramble easily over the rock to the front side and a large ledge with rap anchors. FULL single rope rappel. Make sure you are at your center.
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