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Routes in Chimney Rock

8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Marti Woerner
Page Views: 582 total, 10/month
Shared By: Joe Lee on Nov 18, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Great, but overlooked, three pitch route up the center of Chimney Rock. A little bit of everything. Heady climbing at a moderate grade with tricky gear at times. Mostly good rock . . . Follow the topo from Squeezing the Lemmon II.

Pitch 1 starts below a U shaped ledge with a small tree (same for FIUTT). If you want to protect the initial moves (which I recommend) you can tie your shoes to the end of your rope and throw them over the tree. We had to use a nearby branch to pull the end down. From the tree make committing moves left and up. At the bong climb left into a box formation. I recommend belaying in the corner at the start of pitch 2 instead of the top of the column per the topo.

Pitch 2 ascends a step corner crack system. At the roof traverse left into a funky slot and shoot straight up to a depressed ledge.

Finish on Stripper direct. Move right and up past a small roof with a crack in it. Finish higher up with yet another steep section. Short pitch.

Location

The start is towards the middle section of Chimney Rock. You're going to look for a low ledge with a small tree.

Descend by down climbing the back side. Somewhat tricky. Spot your partner. Once on the ground head right (if you face the rock). When you reach the end of the formation you can scramble easily over the rock to the front side and a large ledge with rap anchors. FULL single rope rappel. Make sure you are at your center.

Protection

Standard rack. Bring small gear. Gear anchors.

Photos

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Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.9 PG13
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.9 PG13
speaking of which, i think this climb could benefit from a few bolts. one to protect the really hard start and one to ease the runout on the upper face of pitch 2. (my last piece was 20 feet below me when i pulled the 5.7 roof above the depressed ledge but maybe i missed some pro?) bolted anchors on the big ledge above that to avoid the funky belay would be nice too.

cue purist outrage in 3, 2, 1... Feb 13, 2015
greg k
 
greg k  
 
The 2nd pitch is a wonderful 5.8 romp. If not for the shared FIUTT opening moves, Stripper would be a stellar moderate. Nov 22, 2012