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Routes in Chimney Rock

8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: , 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Merle Wheeler, Scott Williams, 1971
Page Views: 2,024 total, 14/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 25, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

It's so sad to see the tree go. Instead of the tough boulder problem or the insecure step out of the tree, the start of this climb is now an ignoble pile of rocks placed to get you over the initial hard section.

Although the start of FIUTT (F*** It Use The Tree) is no longer with us, the dihedral is still there and still classic. Climb a stellar corner rising from the right side of the ledge atop the initial bouldering section. You eventually trend right out of the corner unless you want to do the 5.10 finish. The start is a bit right of Standard Route.

Protection

Standard Mt Lemmon rack

Photos

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RobPelon
Tucson, AZ
 
RobPelon   Tucson, AZ
 
Worth noting that there are no chains for this route or any nearby (that I could find) that would enable rappeling back to the start. Walk off. Apr 29, 2017
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
  5.10+
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
  5.10+
We did the 5.10 finish the other day and it's well-worth doing. It's tricky but not impossible to protect. Save as many aid/tips/finger size pieces, slings, and RPs as you can, as well as a hands-size cam, for this direct finish. Belay off your harness against the front of the alcove that you top-out in (bad rock quality for anchors), or use the pine tree way behind you; I'm not sure if a 70m would make it back to the ground, mine doesn't have a middle mark...This climb could use a bolt anchor...The main FIUTT corner has some really cool stemming! Jan 22, 2013