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Routes in Chimney Rock

8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Grossman, Thompson; 1977
Page Views: 6,139 total, 38/month
Shared By: eMurdock on Sep 27, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


77 Opinions

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Description

This plum was picked in the late seventies by the prolific Steve Grossman. The route starts in the small dihedral to the right of Stoner's Boner. 20 feet up, it pulls a small roof with a hand crack in it. The top section gets steeper and finishes with good pro and a great steep hand crack that is as good as they come on Mt. Lemmon. Great rock, great line and great gear.

Protection

standared Lemmon rack with doubles in the hand sizes

Photos

Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
 
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
 
Great climb. Upper crack was tight hands for me. 10-/10 seems right on. Smaller hands would definitely ease up the crux. Feb 24, 2015
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10b
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10b
Thanks Joe for the master Beta :-) Jun 19, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Great finish. too bad the rest of the climbing is less engaging. The grade will depend on hand-size- the smaller the better. I had only a very light rack and I'd placed my 2.5" cam already, so I had to run out at the top with no gear in the crack and so I was facing a long fall. Honestly, with my small hands I felt quite secure. The crux was pulling into the crack over the bulge and getting the feet up. I thought SLR was harder. My partner who has large hands, cruised SLR and dogged this one at the crux. So, I guess it's like Indian Creek climbing- either it fits, or it doesn't.

One thing we can all agree on. Great route! Jan 1, 2008
Braxtron
...
  5.10-
Braxtron   ...
  5.10-
I suggest bringing pro from .5" to 2" including 3 x #1 Camalots. I brought 2 #1's and would have easily found a place for the third one. Awesome climb (though the business isn't very long)!! Mar 19, 2007
Jimbo  
I've always thought Single Lens Reflex was harder than Centerpiece. Plus the direct finish up the face on Single Lens makes it a more interesting climb than Centerpiece.
Weird how one route is harder or easier for different climbers??? Feb 3, 2007
jbak
 
jbak  
 
If you have big fat hands this climb can feel pretty hard. I did this route with my Wyoming buddy "thin-hand" Paul. After I cried about how hard it was, he said "That crack would be 5.8 in Vedauwoo". Ouch. Sep 5, 2006
I think what Wes said is right on. I led it today and was kinda spanked on the top part (just below the bomber hand crack at the top)where it's a little wide and you have to use a face hold w/ not great feet.

I didn't find it so easy to pull on gear there at the wide spot below the top crack, and thought this was stiff for 5.10. Better to be solid @ 10's before you jump on this one.

Great climb still!!! Dec 1, 2005
This climb was fun. Good holds, good feet, and plenty of rests to place gear. I was climing it last Saturday (11/13/05) and took a 25' wipper towards the top and I broke my ankel. It was in the crack and twisted as I fell. I had to bail quick so if anyone gets on this amazing climb soon, you'll find a BD #3, #2 and a blue alien I had to leave behind. I hate leaving gear, expecially when it's my friends. So if your feeling kind, write a comment here to let me know if you would be willing to get my gear back to me but if not, you got hooked up. CH Nov 15, 2005
Wes Turner
az
  5.10b
Wes Turner   az
  5.10b
My reasoning behind the .10b was....is the crux harder than the crux on Single lense reflex?...Yes. and single lense reflex is a .10- for sure so Centerpiece =.10b..that's how I felt about it. Oct 5, 2004
Forest Hill
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Forest Hill   Denver, CO
  5.10a
Yeah, I agree that it's pretty stiff for the rating.

You'll never know how good/stiff it is if you don't get on it. I think we've all gotten on some things with a "I hope I can make it" attitude. I know lots of people who do.

Ithink it's good to know that you're not screwed/going to lose gear if it turns out that you can't finish the pitch. Oct 5, 2004
eMurdock
Tucson, Arizona
 
eMurdock   Tucson, Arizona
 
On the Lemmon, this is a standard 10a crack. A 10a climber with good crack climbing skills does not have problems with this straightforward crack climb. Unfortunately, Lemmon is not the place to get those skills. Oct 4, 2004
Wes Turner
az
  5.10b
Wes Turner   az
  5.10b
my main pt in saying that it was steve grossman who did it first was that I think that this climb is stiff for the grade not run-out. I should have made that clear. Oct 4, 2004
Wes Turner
az
  5.10b
Wes Turner   az
  5.10b
who would want to do that? wait until the lead is a serious challenge. don't get on it when you have to aid it! It would be a waste of an incredible climb Oct 4, 2004
Forest Hill
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Forest Hill   Denver, CO
  5.10a
Althought it should be noted that there's plenty of pro on the route, so you can aid past just about any hard part. Especially the crux. Oct 4, 2004
Wes Turner
az
  5.10b
Wes Turner   az
  5.10b
keep in mind that the climb was done by steve grossman! and if your just breaking into the grade then get a Bunch of other .10-'s under your belt first. Oct 3, 2004