Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: O'kelly, Officer; 1976
Page Views: 4,165 total · 24/month
Shared By: eMurdock on Sep 12, 2004
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

This route is located on the far right end of Chimney Rock, just right of the steep, bolted Ratline (5.11). Climb the left leaning, large dihedral for two pitches. Cruxy moves, and great protection, are encountered on both pitches. A two bolt anchor at the top of Ratline marks the top of the first pitch. A savvy leader can easily link the first two pitches. This is desirable as the first belay is hanging while the second belay is one of the best on the mountain (and also bolted). The last pitch goes up a short offwidth and steep handcrack. Walk off to the right. If you like this one, make sure you do Cripple Creek on the Pharoah.

Protection

Standard rack and one 4" piece if you want it for the offwidth on the last pitch

Photos

Steve Pulver
Williston, ND
  5.10b
Steve Pulver   Williston, ND
  5.10b
I've only done the first pitch of the route. I thought the quality of the climbing was some of the best on the mountain. I also like the fact that there were great stances to place gear as frequently as I like. Sep 14, 2004
afer
 
afer  
 
Do pitch 1 & 2 together for a nice long stiff lead. Makes for an excellent climb that way. Dec 2, 2004
Jimbo  
It's not a squeeze flake. It's two lay back moves and your grabbing the top. Maybe 5.9 this way. try it you'll like it. Stay out of the squeeze!! Jun 11, 2007
Like Rick says, doing P1 and 2 together make for a stellar climb.

For the local aficionado who's done this N times already, try the Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat exit up at the top. That's the obvious set of left trending roofs. I recall that being fun and exhilarating.

However, I wouldn't call it the best route at Chimney.
For my money, that goes to EAJiH. That's the left to right girdle of the cliff. But then, I like girdle climbs. There's never a dull moment for the leader or the second. Sep 9, 2008
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10a
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10a
There's some rotten rock near the start of both the first and second pitches so watch where you protect.

A #5 would protect the offwidth at the bottom of the third pitch better than a #4. Jun 17, 2009
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a/b
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10a/b
Among my favorite routes at Mt. Lemmon. Lots of undercling, lie-off stemming moves that go for 100+ feet. I found that two sets of cams from about 0.4 to 3 inches with one #4, a few wires and lots of long slings to reduce any drag made it very safe and well protected. It is really one pitch - why stop after 60 feet and hang when it is just similar climbing to the top and you can lower straight to the ground from there on one rope? Double your fun and do the entire pitch skipping the sport belay for the 5.11 climb to the left. May 19, 2013
Dj telle
Tucson, AZ
 
Dj telle   Tucson, AZ
 
LINK the pitches for a nice long climb! Jul 24, 2014
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
 
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
 
Great climb! I can't believe it's taken me this long to get on it. I linked all three pitches, and rope drag wasn't an issue at all. Extend long and try not to place directly beneath the roofs. Jun 27, 2016
Ryan Petronella
Denver, CO
  5.10b
Ryan Petronella   Denver, CO
  5.10b
This climb is super fun, definitely link the pitches. Distinct crux just before the p.1 anchors that adds some fun spice. Dec 3, 2017