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Routes in Chimney Rock

8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Baker, Merle Wheeler
Page Views: 1,239 total, 11/month
Shared By: Chris Prewitt on Jul 1, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Yet another quality Chimney Rock 5.10; how many is that?

Begin up flake/dihedral using locks and laybacks to find a tenuous crux halfway through. At the bulge where the crack angles right pull through to a good stance and follow finger crack(dirty and weedy) up right gaining good holds. This section is a bother, but not enough to ruin the experience.
Now it's decision time: follow the shallow right facing corner up then right then up. Pro could get tricky past the corner. Alternately, move left onto slab intersecting with the steeper, shallow thin crack (tricky to protect). From here its a couple moves to the big ledge and the chains.

Location

Locate the alcove containing the striking left-facing dihedral (Ankles Away), then move just around the corner to the right and amongst two trees to find a left facing leaning corner/flake. There may be a couple weeds sticking out of the upper crack. Bolted anchor on ledge.

Protection

nuts, 0-4TCUs, .3-3 Camalots, some 24" runners will help w/drag.

Photos

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Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
 
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
 
Good, exciting climbing. The bottom was slightly more strenuous than it looked, although I may have just chosen bad beta. I took the right side exit and was able to get a questionable .75 in for the last section. Feb 23, 2015
John Hayes
Bend, OR
  5.10c/d
John Hayes   Bend, OR
  5.10c/d
Geir,
Well heck, that explains why it always seemed so spicy to me. I'll have to get some Aliens the next time I give it a try. Dec 25, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
i agree. this one is full-value. save a green and a blue alien for the top - depending on which ending you do, one of these is going to be the only piece of gear that will go in the middle of a long spicy section. Jan 16, 2010
John Hayes
Bend, OR
  5.10c/d
John Hayes   Bend, OR
  5.10c/d
Jungle Gym is a cool climb but you should be very comfortable placing pro' on thin insecure stances. I've led this thing a few times and I'm not too proud to admit that it has scared me every time. The moves down low are thoughtful but at least the pro' is bomber. Higher up, there are enough thin moves above small, marginal nuts to really get your attention. I also seem to recall a patch of grass right where you least need it. There are a few climbs in Tucson that get more credit for a lead than the rating would indicate and in my book, this is one of them. Jan 13, 2010