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Jungle Gym
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
FA: | Dave Baker, Merle Wheeler |
Page Views: | 1,257 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Chris Prewitt on Jul 1, 2008 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
Description
Yet another quality Chimney Rock 5.10; how many is that?
Begin up flake/dihedral using locks and laybacks to find a tenuous crux halfway through. At the bulge where the crack angles right pull through to a good stance and follow finger crack(dirty and weedy) up right gaining good holds. This section is a bother, but not enough to ruin the experience.
Now it's decision time: follow the shallow right facing corner up then right then up. Pro could get tricky past the corner. Alternately, move left onto slab intersecting with the steeper, shallow thin crack (tricky to protect). From here its a couple moves to the big ledge and the chains.
Begin up flake/dihedral using locks and laybacks to find a tenuous crux halfway through. At the bulge where the crack angles right pull through to a good stance and follow finger crack(dirty and weedy) up right gaining good holds. This section is a bother, but not enough to ruin the experience.
Now it's decision time: follow the shallow right facing corner up then right then up. Pro could get tricky past the corner. Alternately, move left onto slab intersecting with the steeper, shallow thin crack (tricky to protect). From here its a couple moves to the big ledge and the chains.
Photos
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Bend, OR
Tucson, AZ
Bend, OR
Well heck, that explains why it always seemed so spicy to me. I'll have to get some Aliens the next time I give it a try. Dec 25, 2010
Tucson, AZ