Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Dave Baker, Merle Wheeler
Page Views: 1,804 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chris Prewitt on Jul 1, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Description

Yet another quality Chimney Rock 5.10; how many is that?

Begin up flake/dihedral using locks and laybacks to find a tenuous crux halfway through. At the bulge where the crack angles right pull through to a good stance and follow finger crack(dirty and weedy) up right gaining good holds. This section is a bother, but not enough to ruin the experience.
Now it's decision time: follow the shallow right facing corner up then right then up. Pro could get tricky past the corner. Alternately, move left onto slab intersecting with the steeper, shallow thin crack (tricky to protect). From here its a couple moves to the big ledge and the chains.

Location

Locate the alcove containing the striking left-facing dihedral (Ankles Away), then move just around the corner to the right and amongst two trees to find a left facing leaning corner/flake. There may be a couple weeds sticking out of the upper crack. Bolted anchor on ledge.

Protection

nuts, 0-4TCUs, .3-3 Camalots, some 24" runners will help w/drag.

Photos

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