Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Chimney Rock

8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Steve Grossman, Gary Hervert, 1982
Page Views: 996 total, 9/month
Shared By: Paul Davidson on Feb 18, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

From Steiger's Guide:

A Grossman "tour de force", one of the most serious leads on the mountain.

Poor protection, questionable rock, long run outs.

While this description was from 1985, one suspects the climb maintains the X rating.

Location

Climb the face just right of Straight Arrow and left of Ratline.

Starts just left of boulder that Ratline goes over. Bear up and left to a shallow corner then up and right to horn just below the bulge. Turn the bulge and climb some 11X face. Continue up to the Stonedmasters ledge.

Finish to the top ala your pleasure.

If you're clipping any fixed gear, you're off route on Straight Arrow (left) or Ratline (right).

Protection

A standard Grossman rack.
However, you can probably leave the kitchen sink on the ground for this one. It tends towards the small size.

Photos

Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.11a/b X
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.11a/b X
Finally got on this thing today. The rock that you climb on is actually really good quality, but the rock that your pro goes in is (mostly) pretty questionable. I wasn't really planning on leading it today, but decided to give it a go after Crow's Nest. Anyways, I only had some nuts/hexes and three microcams with me. As such, it's pretty spicy. Having some more cams (micro and finger/tight hand sizes) would have taken some of the sting out of it, but not much. Tiny nuts would definitely help protect the first corner. That being said, nuts/small hexes were crucial in a few places, and preferable over cams in others (passive pro is less likely to destroy the fragile flakes).

As for the route itself: look for a shallow, right-facing corner with a bit of vegetation in it and head for that (first piece is about 25' up). At the end of the corner, place some small/questionable gear, make a few tenuous moves of face/slab to a big horn, place some more questionable gear, then head straight up over the bulge, following the path of least resistance, until you pull a few more hardish moves and finally end on a big ledge. From the ledge it's easy to traverse over to the second pitch anchors of Crow's Nest. Otherwise, build an anchor and continue up on something else. There are definitely parts where, if you really wanted to, you could traverse left to Straight Arrow and bail. That being said, the line itself is not contrived, and follows a fairly obvious path.

The three stars come from a combination of relatively good climbing, history, and seriousness (the latter two matter to me, but they may not to you. If the route was fully bolted I'd give it 1 1/2 stars). As for the rating: it can be hard to accurately grade a route when it's scary, so maybe it is .11 and not .11a/b. Who knows... Let's get a consensus on it! A great adventure not more than five minutes from the road!

Final note: aside from the first bit of unprotected climbing, the route maybe warrants a hard R, rather than an X; if the gear held, you'd probably be alright. If it didn't, you definitely would not be alright. Either way, I think onsighting would be a good idea. Jun 27, 2016