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Routes in Chimney Rock

8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard & Steve Amter
Page Views: 984 total, 10/month
Shared By: climnron on Oct 25, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Right hand line of bolts.

Location

Back side of Chimney Rock

Protection

bolts

Photos

jbak
 
jbak  
 
Good story Eric.

I remember those days...Gunfighter was featured in Climbing mag I think. 13d seemed wicked...and it was trad. Todd was a good guy too.

Tomorrow was an early 12 for me. Tony Lusk belayed me on redpoint. I told him to give it a try. He said it was too hard, but then came within a whisker of flashing it. Jun 14, 2015
This route came about after spending a week at Hueco Tanks with Todd Skinner. He had been working on a thing called the Gunfighter. He had been working on it for some time. The concept of "projecting" was so new to me and I decided to find a project. I am not positive but I think went up alone and rapped down the back side of Chimney pulling on to the wall drilling bolts as I went. I was guessing where they should go in order to clip them. I returned with Steve Amter and headed up planning to put as much time as it took to make this thing go. Got to the anchors clean first try, thus the name "Tomorrow is Today". Todd was really driven and his energy was boundless. It was fun and inspiring to hang with him. Jun 14, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
A wonderful route, reminiscent of Knights of the Wrong Tissue. Perform a hard move to obtain the first bolt. Awkward feet and a long reach yield a jug and the second bolt. From here traverse along a rail and into a full rest. The second half and crux of the climb is classic Mount Lemmon tipped back edging. A well-deserved jug haul leads past the last bolt to the chains.

8 bolts to a chain anchor. Some might use a stick clip as reaching the first bolt is nontrivial and landing is bad. The route is shaded until approximately 2pm.

Interestingly there is a piton near the second bolt and piton anchors just below the current modern anchors. Jun 13, 2015