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Routes in Chimney Rock

8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 110 ft, Grade II
FA: Dave Baker & Jake Bender
Page Views: 1,057 total, 6/month
Shared By: Almonzo Wilder on Oct 31, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Boardwalk is a fun and varied all trad route. It protects pretty well and is substantially easier than the other 5.7s on Chimney Rock (i.e. George's Buttress and the Standard Route). About the only potential problem is rope drag, as the route does meander back and forth a bit.

Approach: Scrable up to the base of Chimney Rock, which will put you below and a little east of George's Buttress. Head east (right) along the base of the rock to about 75' past the start of the Standard Route. The base is among an inviting batch of manzanitas. Looking up you'll be below a dramatic leaning tower (Stonedmaster Pillar) that is detached from the main wall.

The Climb: Head up and right on the brushy ramp to a flake on the face left of the main crack. Traverse left (crux) and follow the diagonal crack/ramp with a shrub midway up. Below the roof, traverse to bypass it on the right. Head straight up via fun and relaxed climbing to the summit. There are two old hangers for an anchor up top and an easy walkoff on the backside.

Protection

A range of cams is handy, from finger size to 3-4".

Photos

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dale polen
arivaca, az
5.6 R
dale polen   arivaca, az
5.6 R
Great climb. Use long runners and dont over protect. This a classic example of having to run it our you will get some rope drag. so if you cant climb 5.5 10 to 15 feet above your protection this may not be the climb 4 you. I would rate this 5.6. Run outs dont account for difficulty so I disagree with the above said. Great climb and so awesome that some dink has not bolted it. Thanks. Dec 12, 2010
Timothy Roehr
Tucson,Az
Timothy Roehr   Tucson,Az
Sorry, but I have to disagree this is the easiest route of the grade here. The standard route has a bolt protected crux, while this one, at least for me, has two underprotected cruxes.

Also, watch for debris falling off the ledge. Nov 7, 2006
Almonzo Wilder
Flagstaff, Arizona
 
Almonzo Wilder   Flagstaff, Arizona
 
This is a Grade I climb. Sorry for the typo. Nov 3, 2003