All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (San… > Mount Lemmon (Cat… > 2 - Bear Canyon > Chimney Rock
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Routes in Chimney Rock
|8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X|
|Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||FA: Marti Woerner (aka Sadhanna) 1971, FFA: Steve Grossman, John Steiger, 1982|
|Page Views:||924 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||Paul Davidson on Feb 18, 2009|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionClimb the face right of Stonedmasters up past two bolts to a bulge. Once upon a time there was an old pin below the bulge. Squeezing the Lemmon no longer shows a pin on the topo.
Surmount the bulge and continue up.
Excellent and steep face climbing coupled with tricky nutting once made this a must do lead for admission to the Tucson hard man club.
While new fangled rubber and gear may have reduced some of the mystique of the lead, one would imagine the climb maintains some of its spicy nature.
From Steiger's guide:
"This imposing climb was initially freed using the rusted 1/4" bolts left from the 1st ascent.
With the advent of a replaced 3/8" bolt, an insecure voyage has become somewhat steadier.
An in obvious #2 hex placement in a hole provides bombproof protection for the crux bulge."
2nd pitch is your choice but finishing on Stonedmasters was considered the better form.
ProtectionBolts, TCUs and the infamous #2 hex sideways.
At the bulge, find the hole, push your trusty #2 into the pocket and turn it 90 degress. Voila, a bomber wire. With "modern day gear" this climb is probably even more accessible (i.e. remove the PG13 notation.)
I recall finding wires both above and below the bulge.
- No Photos -