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Routes in Chimney Rock

8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA: Marti Woerner (aka Sadhanna) 1971, FFA: Steve Grossman, John Steiger, 1982
Page Views: 916 total, 9/month
Shared By: Paul Davidson on Feb 18, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the face right of Stonedmasters up past two bolts to a bulge. Once upon a time there was an old pin below the bulge. Squeezing the Lemmon no longer shows a pin on the topo.

Surmount the bulge and continue up.

Excellent and steep face climbing coupled with tricky nutting once made this a must do lead for admission to the Tucson hard man club.

While new fangled rubber and gear may have reduced some of the mystique of the lead, one would imagine the climb maintains some of its spicy nature.

From Steiger's guide:
"This imposing climb was initially freed using the rusted 1/4" bolts left from the 1st ascent.
With the advent of a replaced 3/8" bolt, an insecure voyage has become somewhat steadier.
An in obvious #2 hex placement in a hole provides bombproof protection for the crux bulge."

2nd pitch is your choice but finishing on Stonedmasters was considered the better form.

Location

Right of Stonedmasters and left of Crows Nest and Ratline.

Protection

Bolts, TCUs and the infamous #2 hex sideways.

At the bulge, find the hole, push your trusty #2 into the pocket and turn it 90 degress. Voila, a bomber wire. With "modern day gear" this climb is probably even more accessible (i.e. remove the PG13 notation.)
I recall finding wires both above and below the bulge.

Photos

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Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
 
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
 
It's the slot's rock quality, not the geometry of the placement, that gave me the heebies...it's one of those placements ringed with that dark, crispy crust that you become so terribly familiar with after trad-climbing on Lemmon for awhile. Leading this pre-cams would probably have been much harder! Jan 22, 2013
I thought Andy was down rating it, good for a chuckle.
5.10+ was an accurate rating for the day.
That's 10+, not 10.
Pbbly like 5.9+ at Grnt Mnt. ;-)
My memory is that at the time, that was a good rating relative to the other stuff in the area. Histoplasmosis was 5.11. This was easier.

I recall being psyched to get the #2 hex which according to Steve you push back into a hole, turn 90 degrees and voila, hang a truck. And while I placed it, I placed other stuff above it because it seemed as good and much quicker to place and if I remember right, was above the little lip and so higher into the crux. I don't recall any choss, but that doesn't mean much. Dec 20, 2012
Jimbo  
I wonder if a big Alien would work in that slot. I know a tricam would, if they make them that big??
I agree with Andy the crux moves are way harder than 5.10.
I remember I was so excited to be alive I didn't notice any choss up higher because the gear was good. Dec 14, 2012
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
 
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
 
Not 5.10 and (still) not safe. I finally figured out the #2 hex placement. You can get something else there, too, that will make you feel a little better about life before launching into the crux. Great climbing through the crux, but the choss begins sprouting higher up... Dec 14, 2012
I did it with the #2 wired hex but really didn't need it and that was in the 80's. Still might be PG13. Oct 28, 2009