Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Cook, 2000
Page Views: 911 total · 8/month
Shared By: Christian on Oct 21, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

4 Opinions

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Some techie crimping and footwork at the bottom to more moderate climbing.

Use arete up high.


In corridor on north side of Chimney Rock, access by hiking around to climber's left of George's Buttress.

Look for face with bright green lichen just around the corner from the West face.




1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Hey Christian, this route was actually put up by Mike Cook. The initials should have been MCo but I blew it. Jimbo said and you confirmed it, the route is contrived. If you have to ask if it is on then it is contrived. Outside if you are not bouldering there is no on or off. Like the new one at Jailhouse, if you can reach it you can use it. How hard would it be if you didn't contrive it? Oct 22, 2009
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Cool, FA info fixed.

The arete at the top definitely made it easier, have no idea how hard overall it would be going straight up??? 12 c/d? Just stoked to actually get to top without having to bail.

"Tomorrow is Today" actually looked better but the start was looking a little sketchy to me after expending some energy finally leading SLR :-) Oct 22, 2009
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
A crystal blew off on me today while I was on this... it now looks like it would be even harder to go straight up and avoid the arete. Jul 17, 2011
Ken Head
Denver, CO
Ken Head   Denver, CO
Was there when Mike finally got it clean. Definitely goes straight up and not on the arete. Fun route. Miss you bud. Sep 19, 2013
Littleton, CO
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
8 bolts to a chain anchor. Some might use a stick clip as the first bolt is high; however, the climbing isn't too difficult and the landing is flat. The route is shaded until approximately 2pm.

I climbed this route following the path of least resistance and ended up using the wide crack / arete from bolts 5 to 7. Restricting yourself to the face just seems silly as I was never more than an arms length from the bolt line. Climbed in this manner the route is around 12a and quite fun. Jun 13, 2015
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Put this back down to 12 minus since it does seem silly to not use the arete. Mar 25, 2017
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
Finally got in this yesterday after countless times looking at it on the walk-off. A really good climb with some interesting, delicate movement.

Regarding the use of the arête: it actually seemed like it would be contrived, and quite out of the way, to move over to the arête, especially at bolt 5 as someone else here said they did. The closest I ended up to the arête was between bolt 6 and 7, where, after making some delicate moves straight up, there's a slanting jug rail available for the left hand. Maybe that rail is what some people are referring to? It's not really on the arête though, but about a foot or two to the right of it...

Also, there's a right-hand undercling going from bolt 5 to 6 that looks like it might have been broken. Not sure if it was, but it looks like it used to be much more positive.

Either way, I'd say that without going way over to the arête the route is maybe just a tad easier than Tsunami. Apr 7, 2018