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Routes in Chimney Rock

8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Cook, 2000
Page Views: 802 total, 8/month
Shared By: Christian on Oct 21, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Some techie crimping and footwork at the bottom to more moderate climbing.

Use arete up high.

Location

In corridor on north side of Chimney Rock, access by hiking around to climber's left of George's Buttress.

Look for face with bright green lichen just around the corner from the West face.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Christian
Casa do Cacete
 
Christian   Casa do Cacete
 
Put this back down to 12 minus since it does seem silly to not use the arete. Mar 25, 2017
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
8 bolts to a chain anchor. Some might use a stick clip as the first bolt is high; however, the climbing isn't too difficult and the landing is flat. The route is shaded until approximately 2pm.

I climbed this route following the path of least resistance and ended up using the wide crack / arete from bolts 5 to 7. Restricting yourself to the face just seems silly as I was never more than an arms length from the bolt line. Climbed in this manner the route is around 12a and quite fun. Jun 13, 2015
Ken Head
Denver, CO
 
Ken Head   Denver, CO
 
Was there when Mike finally got it clean. Definitely goes straight up and not on the arete. Fun route. Miss you bud. Sep 19, 2013
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
A crystal blew off on me today while I was on this... it now looks like it would be even harder to go straight up and avoid the arete. Jul 17, 2011
Christian
Casa do Cacete
 
Christian   Casa do Cacete
 
Cool, FA info fixed.

The arete at the top definitely made it easier, have no idea how hard overall it would be going straight up??? 12 c/d? Just stoked to actually get to top without having to bail.

"Tomorrow is Today" actually looked better but the start was looking a little sketchy to me after expending some energy finally leading SLR :-) Oct 22, 2009
Hey Christian, this route was actually put up by Mike Cook. The initials should have been MCo but I blew it. Jimbo said and you confirmed it, the route is contrived. If you have to ask if it is on then it is contrived. Outside if you are not bouldering there is no on or off. Like the new one at Jailhouse, if you can reach it you can use it. How hard would it be if you didn't contrive it? Oct 22, 2009