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Routes in Chimney Rock

8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Merle Wheeler, Gale McDonald 1971
Page Views: 1,383 total, 8/month
Shared By: Wes Turner on May 8, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

walk E along Chimney rock and you will see a 50' section of offwidth...some of it is grassy down low but there is a really nice20'section of O/W near the top. belay on a ledge with cams(.5-1) above the O/W. then angle up and lft over a steep seam(1 move) and continue up and left to the top. this P2 that I am talking about might be part of boardwalk.

Protection

Small to large cams a # 4 works great in the offwidth seciton.

Photos

Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Did this one again today, just the offwidth section now that I have some idea what I'm doing. Really cool offwidthing. I placed a 4, 5, and 6 in the offwidth. Could probably get away without the really big guns but they're nice to have.

This is a 1-star climb but I give it an extra star since this type of pure crack climbing is so rare on Mount Lemmon. Definitely something to do if you like this type of climbing. Feb 13, 2015
Dwook  
The bottom is a fun 5.8 didn't bother topping out...BTW my partner and I replaced webbing on the boulder/tree as recently as 2 weeks ago. :> Apr 13, 2010
A Crazy Catalonian talked me into doing this yesterday. It was fun and safe with two #3 camalots and a #4. It is only 20ft. of climbing which is just the right amount of off width for most normal humans. No need to break it into two pitches just use long runners around the chockstone and take it to the top. Nov 10, 2008
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.8
ditto what christian said. sweet jebus! Aug 13, 2008
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
While the offwidth section is only about 20 feet, this route showed me the difference between a "true" offwidth and an "offwidth" where you can use face holds, laybacks, etc.. Mar 30, 2007
FA Merle Wheeler, Gale McDonald 1971 Jan 30, 2006
My God. I can't believe I found info on this route. The "off-width/chimney" was a new climber's dream workout. I climbed it back in 1980-1982 when I lived in Tucson and worked for the Drexel Heights Fire Dept. What ever happened the original, 3-ring bound, hand written and typed climbing guide that used to be kept at the Summit Hut store? We well-known's were sometimes allowed to borrow and Xerox copies of it - wish I still had mine. Someone may have published the guide, I don't really know. Anyway, I'm Mike Minto - if anyone remembers me from those days, drop me a line at mlminto@cox.net. Happy Climbing! Feb 2005 Feb 3, 2005