Avg: 3.6 from 49 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft (36 m)|
|FA:||Steve Grossman, Rich Thompson 1977|
|Page Views:||5,908 total · 28/month|
|Shared By:||Ivan Rezucha on Nov 27, 2003|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd|
The corner is awkward and strenuous, but with good gear. Laybacks, jams and stems get you to the top. This was the physical crux for me. Stem right, and you're finally in balance. Step around to the right and climb a fun slab with mostly good footholds and great gear in a right angling crack. There is a runout bit near the top of this slab, not because there is no gear, but because it's hard to stop. Step left at the top of this section to a ledge system. The two chopped bolts will be at head level. You could place gear here and traveser way left on the ledge system (I almost did), but instead continue up the thin crack with funky gear (good at the bottom, shallow TCU, brass nut higher up). At the top I couldn't figure out what to do. It was windy, cold, and I was getting a bit gripped. Downclimbed 3 times, and finally decided to step left to some decent knobs and make a long reach to a good hold. It wasn't that hard (5.8?), but it was the head crux for me.
The belay on the large ledge is funky. You can get a couple of small cams directly above. I hiked left about 20-30 feet and placed a couple of large cams, then hiked back and belayed above the final moves. To get off, traverse left around an exposed corner to easy ground, then scramble down and climber's left to the base of George's Buttress.