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Routes in Chimney Rock

8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Steve Grossman, Rich Thompson 1977
Page Views: 4,875 total, 29/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Nov 27, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


47 Opinions

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Description

Wild route! Sustained. Walking right from George's Buttress you pass Mistaken Identity, Stoner's Boner, and then a large rectangular block against the base. Centerpiece climbs the obvious vertical crack system that starts from the right side of this block. A little further is a prominent left facing left leaning corner that starts a ways off the ground. The standard start goes up right then underclingd left and then traverses further left to reach the base of the corner. This is a bit runout, but not too hard. This also leads to rope drag. You might want to back clean the first few pieces after getting good gear in the corner. The direct start is up a thin crack in a slab. Gear looks good but fiddly. I did the standard start.

The corner is awkward and strenuous, but with good gear. Laybacks, jams and stems get you to the top. This was the physical crux for me. Stem right, and you're finally in balance. Step around to the right and climb a fun slab with mostly good footholds and great gear in a right angling crack. There is a runout bit near the top of this slab, not because there is no gear, but because it's hard to stop. Step left at the top of this section to a ledge system. The two chopped bolts will be at head level. You could place gear here and traveser way left on the ledge system (I almost did), but instead continue up the thin crack with funky gear (good at the bottom, shallow TCU, brass nut higher up). At the top I couldn't figure out what to do. It was windy, cold, and I was getting a bit gripped. Downclimbed 3 times, and finally decided to step left to some decent knobs and make a long reach to a good hold. It wasn't that hard (5.8?), but it was the head crux for me.

The belay on the large ledge is funky. You can get a couple of small cams directly above. I hiked left about 20-30 feet and placed a couple of large cams, then hiked back and belayed above the final moves. To get off, traverse left around an exposed corner to easy ground, then scramble down and climber's left to the base of George's Buttress.

Protection

Double cams from micro to gold Camalot. Single set nuts from brass to large. Long slings. WARNING: The 2-bolt anchor indicated on the top in Squeezing the Lemmon II is chopped as of this date. That guide also indicates mixed trad/bolts ("[B,G]"), but there are no protection bolts.

Photos

Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
 
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
 
Awesome route! The upper section, after the dihedral, is particularly good. I did this in the dark the other night and realized the next day that one of my cams was missing (blue metolius, marked with climbing tape). If anyone has found it and is kind enough to return it I'll be glad to provide beer! Jul 10, 2015
Dj telle
Tucson, Arizona
  5.10b
Dj telle   Tucson, Arizona
  5.10b
since anchors are chopped continue climbing 20 feet to a big ledge with tree. good place to belay (keep an extra 2 or 3 cam for the anchor) Apr 23, 2015
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a/b
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10a/b
The route is nicely sustained. The bolts are gone but it is an easy traverse due left about 40 feet to another set of chains that you can belay from and then rap off with a 70 meter rope. May 19, 2013
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10b
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10b
I believe Steve Grossman chopped the anchors that Ben Burnham added without consulting him.

The bolted anchors on Stoner's Boner are quite a ways to the left but could be made to work.

I think I used the same option Clay mentions above.

And then there is the option of climbing another 20-25 feet from the first set of chopped bolts (Stoner's Boner height) of somewhat runout stuff to another ledge higher. This has slightly better placements for an anchor that is directly in line with the rest of the route.

It would be nice to have bolted anchors at the top of this and Centerpiece, but adding them without asking the FA is probably not the way to go. May 12, 2013
So it ends at bolts? or are they chopped? If they are chopped you traverse left? or do you continue and higher anchors appear? Or is it a get to the chopped bolts and figure it out on your own deal? May 12, 2013
WOW this thing is great! Similar in difficulty to it's neighbor Centerpiece, though more demanding overall in my opinion. The finish is pure fun. At the ledge, a few small pieces can be use as directionals while belaying from the hand-sized crack at the left end of the ledge. Dec 11, 2012
Mike Willyoung
Flagstaff, Arizona
 
Mike Willyoung   Flagstaff, Arizona
 
Oh so good! Climbing past the chopped anchor makes it even better. Apr 17, 2010
John Hayes
Bend, OR
  5.10a/b
John Hayes   Bend, OR
  5.10a/b
I'll pass on some advice I got from Steve Grossman as I struggled to sew up the big corner the first time I did SLR. The crack was sucking pieces off my rack and I was placing my 6th or 7th nut as Steve soloed up the climb to the left. Hanging from one arm, he looked over and said,"Hey John, I learned when I soloed that climb that it's much easier if you don't have to place pro'. Quit screwing around, just place a few good ones and keep going!" This is a real Tucson classic...have fun with it! Jan 13, 2010
This climb is exciting one to jump on when tired, and at the end of several hard days of climbing. That is to say I had to work and swear a lot harder than anticipated. The climbing is sustained and committing.

When I got to the chopped bolts, I thought hmmm, either these are the anchors described in the book or I have farther to go. Not knowing the answer I continued up. A good 8 feet above my last piece I started to doubt my decision. While balancing on thin holds with no pro available I came to the conclusion that the bolts had been chopped and that I had no idea of what was above me. After a few exciting minutes I decided to down climb. Down climbing was to become the emotional crux of the route. I do not suggest doing this.

Once back at my gear, I built an anchor and walked out left on the ledge. I was curious to know what was on the big ledge above that I hadn't made it to so I scrambled up there. On the ledge I found two threaded bolt inserts and two drilled holes. Unfortunately not a single bolt or hanger was to be found. The gear looked poor, and I had little left to build an anchor. I climbed down and over to the anchors of Stoners Boner and belayed from there.

Lesson learned: Read Mountain Project first

And what's up with all the chopped and missing bolts? Weren't the first set of bolts the conclusion of the original line? And if not, then why are the ones above, where the gear is only so so missing? Mar 14, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
The best of the routes I have done on this wall. The chopped bolts were a blessing, I guess, because I just kept going, well above the blue alien in the thin crack and directly up a very thin crack and face with horizontals, continuing up to a very large sloping ledge with trees. The upper section above the missing anchor was the best part!
From the ledge, scramble up and left to a 2-bolt anchor with my cordalette and a biner on it and rap twice from there, the first being back to the top of Mistaken Identity/New Year's Eve, then to the ground. No doubt, someone will take the biner and cord, but it can always be replaced if you get stuck up there... or figure out some other escape. Jan 1, 2008
Lindajft Jft
maricopa, AZ
Lindajft Jft   maricopa, AZ
SLR=single lens reflex
photography (35 m) Jun 21, 2007
I second that Wes! Mar 12, 2006
Wes Turner
az
  5.10b
Wes Turner   az
  5.10b
a classic Aug 10, 2004