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Routes in Chimney Rock

8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Steiger, Brown, Ringle; 1976
Page Views: 1,569 total, 10/month
Shared By: eMurdock on Sep 13, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This climb is located near the middle of Chimney Rock (perhaps 75 feet right of Single Lens Reflex). The first pitch is the attraction. Climb a steep, slightly flaring finger crack. The rock is very high quality. Near the top of the crack, it is possible to bust out right to face holds or finish up the crack (looks harder although I haven't tried this option). Flaring jams and standard Mt. Lemmon funk make the climbing harder and more off-balance than it looks. Belay at the ledge. Many routes go to the top. An interesting option is the second pitch of Gripping Space (5.10). It climbs out the steep bulge on big holds with slings for protection. Many descents options are possible.

Protection

Standard rack with a good selection in the small to medium sizes

Photos

Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11
I agree with Eric in that the first half has tricky gear. While two bomber stoppers to protect the opening moves, after that I had to do a bit of searching. A black alien and a #3 ballnut provide pretty good protection through the initial crux, but it takes a little work to get them in well. Jun 14, 2010
1Eric Rhicard
  5.11 PG13
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.11 PG13
I thought it was hard but not too long. Nov 20, 2009
It may be tough but it's never hard! Mar 16, 2009
1Eric Rhicard
  5.11 PG13
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.11 PG13
Did this on Saturday and found the first half to be a bit exciting in a possible sprained ankle kind of way. I think a #4 Camalot would be useful on this lower section even though you are never doing any fat crack moves. All in all a good route that ends too soon. Mar 9, 2009