Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Steiger, Brown, Ringle; 1976
Page Views: 1,655 total · 9/month
Shared By: eMurdock on Sep 13, 2004
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

This climb is located near the middle of Chimney Rock (perhaps 75 feet right of Single Lens Reflex). The first pitch is the attraction. Climb a steep, slightly flaring finger crack. The rock is very high quality. Near the top of the crack, it is possible to bust out right to face holds or finish up the crack (looks harder although I haven't tried this option). Flaring jams and standard Mt. Lemmon funk make the climbing harder and more off-balance than it looks. Belay at the ledge. Many routes go to the top. An interesting option is the second pitch of Gripping Space (5.10). It climbs out the steep bulge on big holds with slings for protection. Many descents options are possible.

Protection

Standard rack with a good selection in the small to medium sizes

Photos

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.11 PG13
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
  5.11 PG13
Did this on Saturday and found the first half to be a bit exciting in a possible sprained ankle kind of way. I think a #4 Camalot would be useful on this lower section even though you are never doing any fat crack moves. All in all a good route that ends too soon. Mar 9, 2009
It may be tough but it's never hard! Mar 16, 2009
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.11 PG13
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
  5.11 PG13
I thought it was hard but not too long. Nov 20, 2009
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com
Tucson, AZ
  5.11
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com   Tucson, AZ
  5.11
I agree with Eric in that the first half has tricky gear. While two bomber stoppers to protect the opening moves, after that I had to do a bit of searching. A black alien and a #3 ballnut provide pretty good protection through the initial crux, but it takes a little work to get them in well. Jun 14, 2010
Jared Guglielmo
Tucson, Arizona
  5.11b
Jared Guglielmo   Tucson, Arizona
  5.11b
Another semi-decent, classic-for-Lemmon splitter! The ankle factor may be true, but I was able to find good gear right around the time that became a possibility. Beside this small stretch of climbing there is inspiring gear the whole way. 3 star climbing that loses a star because of it’s shriveled size. Mar 11, 2018