Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Mike McEwen 1976
Page Views: 5,308 total · 26/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Nov 25, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Fire Closure Details

Description

The FFA's of Stoner's Boner and Mistaken Identity to the left, were both done thinking each climb was the other climb, and hence (I'm assuming) the names.

Stoner's Boner starts very roughly 50 feet right of George's Buttress at the left side of Chimney Rock. It climbs a parallel crack system in a recess just left of a big block against the base of the cliff. The block is the start of Centerpiece. A short ways up the left crack is a tiny pine tree.

Having never done the route before, it was a little confusing at times as to which crack to climb. This is how I did it:

Up the slab and step right to the right crack. Stem the two cracks. When it steepens, step over to the left crack below a bulge. The right crack might be easier, but the left crack looks like the better line. Getting past this bulge and established in the wider crack above is the first crux. I laybacked left and reach some horizontals.

Above this easier climbing leads a bit right to a good stance. There is a roof above. The left crack continues past the left side of the roof. This next section is the second crux. Step left onto the face with good handholds and pull up to an awkward stance below the roof. The crack above is flared and looks hard. Instead, undercling right around the roof (not hard, but exciting) to a good stance above the roof. Step back left into the crack. At the very top, the crack is flared. I pulled up and left to a ledge. The two-bolt anchor is right of the top of the crack.

Protection

Double cams from green Alien or smaller to #4 Friend/3.5 Camalot. Single set of nuts from brass to medium. Lots of draws and 5 or more full length runners. 2-bolt anchor. To rap, two ropes or 70m rope, or downclimb the last 10-20 feet if you have a 60m rope.

Photos