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Routes in Chimney Rock

8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Mike McEwen 1976
Page Views: 3,958 total, 23/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Nov 25, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

The FFA's of Stoner's Boner and Mistaken Identity to the left, were both done thinking each climb was the other climb, and hence (I'm assuming) the names.

Stoner's Boner starts very roughly 50 feet right of George's Buttress at the left side of Chimney Rock. It climbs a parallel crack system in a recess just left of a big block against the base of the cliff. The block is the start of Centerpiece. A short ways up the left crack is a tiny pine tree.

Having never done the route before, it was a little confusing at times as to which crack to climb. This is how I did it:

Up the slab and step right to the right crack. Stem the two cracks. When it steepens, step over to the left crack below a bulge. The right crack might be easier, but the left crack looks like the better line. Getting past this bulge and established in the wider crack above is the first crux. I laybacked left and reach some horizontals.

Above this easier climbing leads a bit right to a good stance. There is a roof above. The left crack continues past the left side of the roof. This next section is the second crux. Step left onto the face with good handholds and pull up to an awkward stance below the roof. The crack above is flared and looks hard. Instead, undercling right around the roof (not hard, but exciting) to a good stance above the roof. Step back left into the crack. At the very top, the crack is flared. I pulled up and left to a ledge. The two-bolt anchor is right of the top of the crack.

Protection

Double cams from green Alien or smaller to #4 Friend/3.5 Camalot. Single set of nuts from brass to medium. Lots of draws and 5 or more full length runners. 2-bolt anchor. To rap, two ropes or 70m rope, or downclimb the last 10-20 feet if you have a 60m rope.
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
WARNING: ONSIGHT SPOILER
there's a perfect #1 camalot placement a foot or so above the lip of the second roof on the right-hand side. if you're hesitant about committing to the roof move like i was, it should help to have a bomber cam right in your face. Mar 11, 2015
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
 
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
 
Good fun. If you have occasion to not rappel, the walk off the back takes no more than 5 minutes to get back to the base of the route. Feb 20, 2015
HTeale
Madison, WI
  5.10a
HTeale   Madison, WI
  5.10a
Great route, lots of fun. We did a trad lead up George's Buttress and then top roped Stoner's Boner. Our 60m rope would have been short if we hadn't extended it with a cordelette by about 4' on each top anchor. We went right on the roof and then left up the open seam at the top. Jan 3, 2012
David Lammers
Grand Junction, CO
 
David Lammers   Grand Junction, CO
 
Our 57 meter rope (missing about 8 feet on one end) reached the ground with stretch on the rappel. A 0.5 BD cam in the pocket under the roof with a shoulder-length sling resulted in no rope drag as I worked up the left side of the second (Boner) roof and continued to the top. May 22, 2011
Dwook
 
Dwook  
 
I solo aid climbed this for practice last year...Its a ton of fun a must do. Apr 13, 2010
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9+
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
  5.9+
This route is fun to lead! I'm not usually a "puller of roofs", but really if you go around right, not bad. Awesome pro, exciting crux areas. You really ought to extend those runners under the roof, even pieces 5 or 6 ft under the roof-lesson learned/rope drag made the top a little spicy. And 60 meter rope will not reach the ground, but gets you to a good enough stopping point, just be aware. Do this, it's great! Jan 19, 2010
John Hayes
Bend, OR
  5.9
John Hayes   Bend, OR
  5.9
There are two variations to the finish. From the top of the "boner" you can go left into the thin crack as described here or you can go straight up and then right to the wider hand crack and face. Both variations are of similar difficulty (about 5.9) and fun. A number of years ago, Dave Jones and I did a variation that turned the "boner" on the left. As I recall, it was more stout climbing (maybe 5.10+) to get past the overhang. IMHO, the standard variation that turns the "boner" on the right is the way to go. Jan 13, 2010
C Miller   CA  
"Sorry, but I don't know how to remove buttonheads, so the old anchor still there"

Try this - safeclimbing.org/education/… Feb 1, 2008
Braxtron
...
  5.9
Braxtron   ...
  5.9
New, all stainless steel anchor placed on 1/31/08. Hardware donated by Renob Climbing.

Sorry, but I don't know how to remove buttonheads, so the old anchor still there, complete with spinning cold shut. Feb 1, 2008
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.9+
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.9+
I change my mind, this is a classic route..A great Mt Lemmon scarefest for the fledgling 5.9/5.9+ trad leader..Mistaken Identity has some scarier pro in one certain area, but Stoner's Boner gives you so many more chances to hang out and think "what the hell am I doing here, what was I thinking getting on this thing?" before committing to the next sketchy section...

The first time I led it I also went left to the easier ledge left of the top crack, but I didn't consider it sent until I went back and went straight up the top crack. Dec 15, 2007
Daniel Cohn  
 
Make sure you use long slings under the upper roof, otherwise the drag will be really bad. Fun route with some unexpected challenges. Easy walk off. Jul 15, 2007
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.9+
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.9+
You can also just rap (slightly right as you face the rock) to the big block where Centerpiece starts, downclimbing that thing is easier than downclimbing off the end of the rope hanging straight down.. Mar 12, 2007
Braxtron
...
  5.9
Braxtron   ...
  5.9
My 60m rope did NOT touch the ground. There was a bit of downclimbing, but it's on easy territory. Mar 12, 2007
Bret
  5.9+
Bret  
  5.9+
Did it twice, two years apart. The first time I did it, I pulled around left of the roof. Then, last year, I pulled around right. Unless I've gotten much better over the last couple of years, I thought the lefthand variation was both more awkward and scarier. The right was great with better pro above the roof. YMMV but either way the climbing below the roof is exciting. -Bret Nov 5, 2004
Wes Turner
az
  5.9
Wes Turner   az
  5.9
--climb up the slab to the left most crack get on a big stance above a little tree and place bomber pro... then continue up left crack..i was told left is much better than going up the right crack but I have never done the right. and left was great so go left!--I have always turned the roof on the right. I have never seen anyone turn it on the left or go straight over. A nice cam about .4 protects under the roof and then big hands help you turn it on the right. The left, I believe, would be quite a bit harder and looks to be less fun than the right. ...work back left to flared crack Jun 21, 2004
A 60 M rope will work on the rap; it's (very) close but it does get you to the ground. Jan 5, 2004