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> 2 - Bear Canyon
> Chimney Rock
Georges Peach
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad, Sport, 60 ft |
FA: | TBA |
Page Views: | 1,404 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Vincent Greene on Dec 20, 2003 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
az
Portland, OR
Casa do Cacete
If somebody else is climbing George's Buttress and you're rapping or being lowered off this you could easily end up swinging into that climber.. Jan 12, 2007
It is an independent line and does add one more route for those of us that are always looking for something new to do. Feb 3, 2007
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Gear is good if you don't want to deck (ground fall potential) and you're near your limit, but in my opinion isn't really necessary since the climbing near the horizontal crack is pretty easy. Oh yeah, I also thought it sucked. Meanders this way and that and is the antithesis of sustained. Mar 19, 2007
tucson,az
Williston, ND
Williston, ND
This website let's you click on the [details] link next to the grade to see what an individual person rated a route, if you're interested in what I rated George's Buttress. I never meant to imply GB was harder than 5.7... But now that I think about it, hmmm.... Mar 19, 2007
Casa do Cacete
But I just don't climb hard enough to worry about it.
If I had a friend that was transitioning from sport to trad and he'd only done trad or mixed routes in the newer areas, my main concern would be to tell him (for his safety) that he can expect to be humbled on an old school trad route of the same grade. What he decides to do with that knowledge is then up to him. Mar 19, 2007
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I climbed this route again yesterday, in part to see what I don't like about it. Basically, it comes down to this: it's a meandering, contrived sport route in a classic trad climbing area.* If you climb directly over the bolts, it's maybe 5.9-. Go 3' to either side of the bolt line and the difficulty plummets precipitously. As a result, GP doesn't match the 'feel' of Chimney Rock. This area is the Mt. Lemmon trad climbing locale, in my opinion, because of it's history, the long, high-quality routes, and plenty of opportunities to get sketched out above bomber gear placements. It's a great place to push one's trad climbing limits, both mentally and physically. Not to mention, the chances of running into a crowd there are about as good as being struck by lightning, winning the lottery, and bootying 6 new cams, all on the same evening.
Who bolted this route?
EDIT: Many thanks to jbak for scanning some of the old Summit Hut guide pages. Jan 27, 2008
Batesville, AR
I have to admit that the route felt contrived. It had some fun moves, but I just didn't understand the bolt placements. Seems like the direct start would be the crux unless it is supposed to go directly over the roof to the chains rather than traversing in from the left. I did enjoy it somewhat, maybe aided by the fact that I read this stuff and expected it to be contrived. Jul 15, 2008
sierra vista, az
Not a very good route at all, but not the worst on the mountain. Wouldn't do it again, or recommend it to a friend. Dec 22, 2008
Tucson, AZ
Should this climb be removed? Apr 22, 2009
Just because we don't like something doesn't mean we can destroy it. "W" ain't the sheriff anymore!
This route is pretty silly but people do climb it. So let it be.
It's not doing any harm.
Apr 22, 2009
Denver, CO
Leave it alone. Apr 22, 2009
Tucson, AZ
but God ... this climb is awful! :) :) Apr 23, 2009
Tucson, AZ