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Routes in Chimney Rock

8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
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Description

Chimney Rock is a large, freestanding formation on the west side of the Catalina Highway near mp 11. Proximity to the highway, and a variety of climbing, have made Chimney Rock a popular crag for many years.

The Standard Route (5.7+) is a fun traditional climb that meanders for five short pitches up the broad east face of Chimney Rock. Moderate climbing and comfortable belays make this a great route to learn about multi-pitch climbing.

The southern portion of the east face also hosts a number of harder routes, many of superb quality. On the back (west) side of Chimney Rock are a couple of very hard sport routes. These can be inspected by rapping off the top of Chimney Rock where Standard Route finishes.

Getting There

Driving up the Catalina Highway, go past Chimney Rock and park in a large pullout on the right just past mp 11. Highway construction has destroyed the old access point, so you have two options.

Direct option: From pullout, walk down-highway about a quarter mile until you are directly below the east face of Chimney Rock. (Be careful walking as there is not much shoulder here).Just below Chimney Rock, there is a break in the cliff where you can fourth-class up about 15 feet to access the rock. This is what remains of the old access. Be careful not to fall into the roadway or kick rocks down onto passing cars.

Safe option: From pullout, walk across the highway to a large culvert. Scramble up slope just right of this culvert to gain the upper ledge. Bushwack south 1/4 mile, paralleling the highway until you reach Chimney Rock.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Chimney Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 90
Standard Route
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 104
George's Buttress
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 99
Stoner's Boner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 76
Mistaken Identity
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 16
FIUTT
2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 74
Centerpiece
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 4
Stripper
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 44
Single Lens Reflex
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 42
Crows Nest
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 15
Copperhead 5
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat
Trad 7 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 15
Jungle Gym
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 4
Straight Arrow
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
Shriveled Penis
Trad 2 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
Tomorrow is Today
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard Route
 90
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
George's Buttress
 104
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Stoner's Boner
 99
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Mistaken Identity
 76
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
FIUTT
 16
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 2 pitches
Centerpiece
 74
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Stripper
 4
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Single Lens Reflex
 44
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Crows Nest
 42
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Copperhead 5
 15
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 7 pitches
Jungle Gym
 15
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Straight Arrow
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Shriveled Penis
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
Tomorrow is Today
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Chimney Rock »

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Weather Averages

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randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
best single-pitch traditional climbing crag on mt. lemmon.

one negative: be wary of chopped anchors. Oct 26, 2008
TBD
TBD  
I strongly suggest NOT taking the "safe option" approach. We had a dog with us and decided to approach that way. It was ridiculously unpleasant. My 2 cents, if you can't manage the short scramble, find somewhere else to climb. Great routes though. Nov 25, 2008
tbrain  
Found baseball cap at the base of the routes on Chimney Rock evening of 30 Mar 09. PM me to collect. Thanks! -Tiffany Brainerd Mar 31, 2009
Adam Block
Tucson, AZ
Adam Block   Tucson, AZ
From the picture, it looks like it may be pitch four. May 2, 2010
Great area on Lemmon for all trad routes and great views like most of Lemmon, however be so kind to watch for loose rock and big blocks for your belayer, and passing traffic on the road below. May 2, 2010
If it helps anyone, the location of Chimney Rock is at this approximate latitude and longitude: 32.36865600 N,110.70476300 W Apr 11, 2011
Jimbo  
Thanks for posting that. I've been trying to find Chimney Rock for 15 years. Now I finally can. Apr 12, 2011
enkoopa  
Even with the GPS this was a mess. Finally found the wall but pictures from our book were useless. We climbed some route which took a #4 had a boulder slung as the first mini pitch then went up to a bolted anchor which then continued to some steep sport route. If anyone knows if that is even a route and if so what name is appreciate it. Feb 20, 2013
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
GregC- you did 8th & Main into Icarus (the 5.11 sport route up the overhanging arete of the pillar). Feb 21, 2013
Isaiah Foulks
Monterey
Isaiah Foulks   Monterey
Approach beta: don't do the bushwack approach. It sucks. When we finally got to the base, the obvious short section of 4th class directly below seemed to laugh at us. We happily took it down, and back up again the next day. Just park right at mile marker 11 and walk down the highway for about a quarter mile or so. It's the only obvious cliff face that looms over you directly above the highway. And the 4th class route is easy and obvious. Jan 9, 2018

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