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Chimney Rock Climbing
Routes in Chimney Rock
|8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X|
|Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|GPS:||32.369, -110.704 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||23,411 total, 127/month|
|Shared By:||James DeRoussel on Oct 18, 2002|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionChimney Rock is a large, freestanding formation on the west side of the Catalina Highway near mp 11. Proximity to the highway, and a variety of climbing, have made Chimney Rock a popular crag for many years.
The Standard Route (5.7+) is a fun traditional climb that meanders for five short pitches up the broad east face of Chimney Rock. Moderate climbing and comfortable belays make this a great route to learn about multi-pitch climbing.
The southern portion of the east face also hosts a number of harder routes, many of superb quality. On the back (west) side of Chimney Rock are a couple of very hard sport routes. These can be inspected by rapping off the top of Chimney Rock where Standard Route finishes.
Getting ThereDriving up the Catalina Highway, go past Chimney Rock and park in a large pullout on the right just past mp 11. Highway construction has destroyed the old access point, so you have two options.
Direct option: From pullout, walk down-highway about a quarter mile until you are directly below the east face of Chimney Rock. (Be careful walking as there is not much shoulder here).Just below Chimney Rock, there is a break in the cliff where you can fourth-class up about 15 feet to access the rock. This is what remains of the old access. Be careful not to fall into the roadway or kick rocks down onto passing cars.
Safe option: From pullout, walk across the highway to a large culvert. Scramble up slope just right of this culvert to gain the upper ledge. Bushwack south 1/4 mile, paralleling the highway until you reach Chimney Rock.
Classic Climbing Routes at Chimney Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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