Elevation: 5,854 ft
GPS: 32.369, -110.704 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 59,034 total · 272/month
Shared By: James DeRoussel on Oct 18, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
Access Issue: Fire Closure Details

Description

Chimney Rock is a large, freestanding formation on the west side of the Catalina Highway near mp 11. Proximity to the highway, and a variety of climbing, have made Chimney Rock a popular crag for many years.

The Standard Route (5.7+) is a fun traditional climb that meanders for five short pitches up the broad east face of Chimney Rock. Moderate climbing and comfortable belays make this a great route to learn about multi-pitch climbing.

The southern portion of the east face also hosts a number of harder routes, many of superb quality. On the back (west) side of Chimney Rock are a couple of very hard sport routes. These can be inspected by rapping off the top of Chimney Rock where Standard Route finishes.

Getting There

Driving up the Catalina Highway, go past Chimney Rock and park in a large pullout on the right just past mp 11. Highway construction has destroyed the old access point, so you have two options.

Direct option: From pullout, walk down-highway about a quarter mile until you are directly below the east face of Chimney Rock. (Be careful walking as there is not much shoulder here).Just below Chimney Rock, there is a break in the cliff where you can fourth-class up about 15 feet to access the rock. This is what remains of the old access. Be careful not to fall into the roadway or kick rocks down onto passing cars.

Safe option: From pullout, walk across the highway to a large culvert. Scramble up slope just right of this culvert to gain the upper ledge. Bushwack south 1/4 mile, paralleling the highway until you reach Chimney Rock.

32 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Chimney Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 107
Standard Route
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 114
George's Buttress
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 110
Stoner's Boner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 89
Mistaken Identity
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 17
FIUTT
2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 82
Centerpiece
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 5
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 47
Single Lens Reflex
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 46
Crows Nest
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 17
Copperhead 5
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat
Trad 7 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 18
Jungle Gym
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 4
Straight Arrow
Trad 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 6
Veranda
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
Tomorrow is Today
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard Route
 107
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 5 pitches
George's Buttress
 114
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Stoner's Boner
 110
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Mistaken Identity
 89
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
FIUTT
 17
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 2 pitches
Centerpiece
 82
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Yardarm variation to Crows…
 5
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Single Lens Reflex
 47
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Crows Nest
 46
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Copperhead 5
 17
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 7 pitches
Jungle Gym
 18
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Straight Arrow
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Veranda
 6
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Tomorrow is Today
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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