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Routes in Chimney Rock

8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Don O'Kelly, Don O'Kelly Jr. 1976
Page Views: 2,896 total, 17/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Nov 27, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


77 Opinions

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Description

Fun route! Just right of George's Buttress is a smooth steep face with 2 bolts and a large overhange above. This is New Year's Eve. Just right of this is a right angling hand crack through a bulge. Climb to the hand crack and over the bulge to a stance. Only a couple of hand jams are necessary, so you shouldn't need tape.

Above is a wide crack, which fortunately goes via fun stems. Above this start angling left following thing flared cracks and slabs. You are heading for the 2-bolt anchor on George's Buttress. There is a tricky move up a thin crack in a slab--the crux I thought. At a small ceiling step left then back right to clear it. One more tricky move leads straight left to the anchors and a good stance.

This felt much easy than its sister 5.9 to the right, Stoner's Boner, but I was self-belaying that one and so may have struggled more than necessary.

Protection

Double cams from green Alien to gold Camalot (about 3/8" to 2.5"). Above that, singles to at least a #4 Friend. I used a #4 Camalot, but a 3.5 Camalot/#4 Friend would work. Single set of nuts. Long slings. 2-bolt anchor that is shared with the right/standard variation of George's Tree.
David Lammers
Grand Junction, CO
 
David Lammers   Grand Junction, CO
 
Great route. Protection was ample throughout the climb. After climbing both this and Stoner's Boner I would say this route is easier then Stoner's to protect. May 22, 2011
b-rox  
shallow seam took a red c3 camalot where I needed it. Apr 20, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Since I caught the fall and had to clean that %^(%*^&(&& I'll attest it's bomber. It's kind of a balancey move to get far enough off the ledge on the right to get a clean look at the crack. Much preferable to run it out over a crappy black Alien like I did.

So if you suck at passive gear like me then "you're stupid and you'll die."

I think Michael Reardon used to use that line but it's actually from the Pris/Daryl Hannah character in the movie "Blade Runner". One of the all-time best movies ever (after "Clockwork Orange" of course). Jun 30, 2008
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
BETA

people say the crux is one of those "the leader must not fall" situations but if you're good with passive pro it's just as well protected as the rest of the climb. there's a bomber large nut placement (BD #11 i think) 6-7 feet below the crux and a bomber micro nut placement (BD #3) right at the crux...trust me about the large nut placement; it took my second 10 minutes to get it out after i whipped on it...

UPDATE 5/26/15
i did this route again a couple days ago and there's a solid #00 cam placement right where you want it at the crux. Jun 30, 2008
joshf
missoula, mt
 
joshf   missoula, mt
 
the top crack flares out but takes a textbook pink tri-cam...i also found a good placement a little lower down for a small tcu. really fun route. Nov 4, 2007
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
I used a #4 to protect the second roof down low ( right up from the pic I posted)...Don't remember anything wide enough to take a 4 up top...

The pro's a little thin on the bottom part of the upper face (past the two roofs)..There's a couple of spots where the crack doesn't flare as much but they're very hard to see from the stances.. Dec 31, 2006
jamman
  5.9
jamman  
  5.9
As far as protection, a standard rack should do is pleanty. I took a #4 Camalot and used it toward the top. Again, there are chains at the top of this route not belonging to George's. Oct 16, 2006
No that great for gear on the last "crack" part. More like a shallow seam. Just go for it! OR head left and finnish up on the 5.7.

I like this area a lot Nov 26, 2005
Wes Turner
az
  5.9
Wes Turner   az
  5.9
This route does not share anchors with George's Buttress! While you could traverse over to GB(left) you go up left then back right and continue up right angling sometimes flared crack to a two bolt anchor next to a block. Great route! Jun 9, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
When I say "George's Tree", of course I mean "George's Buttress". There is a George's Tree at Lumpy Ridge in Colorado where I often climb, and hence my confusion. Nov 28, 2003