Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Don O'Kelly, Don O'Kelly Jr. 1976
Page Views: 3,576 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Nov 27, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


89 Opinions

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Access Issue: Fire Closure Details

Description

Fun route! Just right of George's Buttress is a smooth steep face with 2 bolts and a large overhange above. This is New Year's Eve. Just right of this is a right angling hand crack through a bulge. Climb to the hand crack and over the bulge to a stance. Only a couple of hand jams are necessary, so you shouldn't need tape.

Above is a wide crack, which fortunately goes via fun stems. Above this start angling left following thing flared cracks and slabs. You are heading for the 2-bolt anchor on George's Buttress. There is a tricky move up a thin crack in a slab--the crux I thought. At a small ceiling step left then back right to clear it. One more tricky move leads straight left to the anchors and a good stance.

This felt much easy than its sister 5.9 to the right, Stoner's Boner, but I was self-belaying that one and so may have struggled more than necessary.

Protection

Double cams from green Alien to gold Camalot (about 3/8" to 2.5"). Above that, singles to at least a #4 Friend. I used a #4 Camalot, but a 3.5 Camalot/#4 Friend would work. Single set of nuts. Long slings. 2-bolt anchor that is shared with the right/standard variation of George's Tree.

Photos