Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Mike McEwen, Dom Dimwiddy
Page Views: 4,580 total · 24/month
Shared By: James DeRoussel on Feb 7, 2003
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

104 Opinions

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This is the left-most route on Chimney Rock. Start in small corner near west end of Chimney Rock. Presently, it is necessary to climb over a small tree to get on the starting moves.

Start up low angle slab and walk right into big left-facing corner. Climb up dihedrals to large overhang/roof with good hands. Exposed traverse leads right under roof on huge hands. Exit this traverse up and right, and climb around corner on more jugs. Low angle offwidth leads up 15 feet to anchors.

Fun and well-protected!


Standard trad rack, Chain Anchors


super fun with awesome pro. Bring a biggish piece for the top. Awkward stance for two at the top. I bypassed the tree at the bottom on the right and traversed left soon afterwards. Apr 3, 2003
Almonzo Wilder
Flagstaff, Arizona
Almonzo Wilder   Flagstaff, Arizona
I didn't really enjoy the awkward off-width section up top, but this is a solid route overall. Nov 11, 2003
Wes Turner
az / pa
Wes Turner   az / pa
great route..not on par with agatha and slippey and thats why the 2 stars...lotsa fun though... for those of you who might be pushing it or having a little trouble up high..don't get tunnel vision! high left hand holds and feet abound! (If I remember correctly). make a stretch or pop to a huge jug for the pull to the top. I don't remember a large piece fitting very well. I think I chose a bomber .5 cam about 2-3 feet lower to protect the wide section. Aug 10, 2004
Las Vegas, NV
E IV   Las Vegas, NV
Link this route to the last route of the Standard Route via some 4th class scrambling for a very fun climb! Nov 8, 2008
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
This is a great warm up, and great 5.7 lead, good pro all the way. And if you start left at the bottom, it's a little awkward, maybe 5.8/9-so start right where all the chalk is, duh. I liked having a 4 for the top. I will do what "The Boodge" recommends next time and link it with the standard-sounds cool. Jan 19, 2010
Jorge Achata
Lima, Peru
Jorge Achata   Lima, Peru
This route is a lot a fun and it's awesome to practice placements. It will take all sorts of gear. Great warm up! Nov 5, 2013
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
having done this route, Mistaken Identity, and Stoner's Boner each multiple times i'm pretty sure the only reason this one gets a lower quality rating (2.5 stars instead of 3) is because it's 5.7 and the others are 5.9. this is a solid route especially for mount lemmon. Nov 27, 2016