Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 35,798 total · 139/month
Shared By: Almonzo Wilder on Jan 4, 2003 · Updates
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

This is a great moderate route to learn about multi-pitch climbing. Both cruxes are bolted, so all gear placements are on 5.5 rock or easier, making this a good climb for beginning trad leaders. The route has 5 very short pitches with a variety of face, crack, and chimney climbing. To get to the climb park about 1/4 mile above Chimney Rock at a small pullout. Walk back down until almost the far end of the rock, where a steep trail leads to the base of the crag (below George's Buttress). From here, walk back up about 30 yards to the base of the climb. The route starts at a large boulder that's fractured from the main rock. The face above this has two bolts below a large overhanging flake.

Pitch 1 (40 ft): Face climbing with two bolted mantle moves. The second is the crux of the climb (5.7). Belay off natural pro at the base of the chimney.

Pitch 2 (50 ft): Climb the fun chimney (by fun, I mean relative to most chimneys) until you can exit out onto a face (where several old pitons used to live). Cross into alcove at right side of the Garden Ledge and belay of natural pro or walk along ledge to bolted rap anchor. 

Pitch 3 (20 ft): Move belay to a big tree at the left side of Garden Ledge, most parties will be comfortable standing on ledge without tethering to tree. Climb up short layback crack (easy 5.7) with nearby bolt. Belay from tree or continue along ledge to two bolts at the bottom of pitch 4.

Pitch 4 (80 ft): Move belay left to the end of the big ledge (if you haven't already). Climb the fun, easy and airy buttress to its top. Sling a boulder, or belay off natural pro.

Pitch 5 (20 ft): Climb the short spire. Belay off natural pro or utilize rap anchors. 

Descend the back side: short rappel and downclimb around chimney rock

Descend the front side: long rappel back to garden ledge (70m rope REQUIRED), then rappel to ground where you took off from.

The three protection bolts and two rap anchors replaced 2023. CASA/ASCA. 

Protection Suggest change

Bring along a full rack including a good range of cams and stoppers. Both cruxes are bolted, and there are a few old pitons at the top of the second pitch.

NOTE: The pitons were removed/stolen years ago by persons unknown.

Photos

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