All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (San… > Mount Lemmon (Cat… > 2 - Bear Canyon > Chimney Rock
Avg: 2.4 from 78 votes
Routes in Chimney Rock
|8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Centerpiece T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Coherent Excitation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X|
|Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Georges Peach T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Single Lens Reflex T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Tomorrow is Today S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R|
|Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 5 pitches|
|Page Views:||8,551 total, 47/month|
|Shared By:||Almonzo Wilder on Jan 4, 2003|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThis is a great moderate route to learn about multi-pitch climbing. Both cruxes are bolted, so all gear placements are on 5.5 rock or easier, making this a good climb for beginning trad leaders. The route has 5 very short pitches with a variety of face, crack, and chimney climbing. To get to the climb park about 1/4 mile above Chimney Rock at a small pullout. Walk back down until almost the far end of the rock, where a steep trail leads to the base of the crag (below George's Buttress). From here, walk back up about 30 yards to the base of the climb. The route starts at a large boulder that's fractured from the main rock. The face above this has two bolts below a large overhanging flake.
Pitch 1 (40 ft): Face climbing with two bolted mantle moves. The second is the crux of the climb (5.7). Belay off natural pro at the base of the chimney.
Pitch 2 (50 ft): Climb the fun chimney (by fun, I mean relative to most chimneys) until you can exit out onto a face with several old pitons. Cross into alcove at right side of the Garden Ledge and belay of natural pro.
Pitch 3 (20 ft): Move belay to a big tree at the left side of Garden Ledge. The route exits up short layback crack (easy 5.7). Belay from tree.
Pitch 4 (80 ft): Move belay left to the end of the big ledge. Climb the fun, easy and airy buttress to its top. Sling a boulder, or belay off natural pro.
Pitch 5 (20 ft): Climb the short spire. Belay off natural pro.
Descend left with some scrambling and a short rappel.