All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (S… > Mount Lemmon (C… > 2 - Bear Canyon > Chimney Rock
Avg: 2.4 from 80 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 5 pitches|
|Page Views:||8,860 total · 48/month|
|Shared By:||Almonzo Wilder on Jan 4, 2003|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThis is a great moderate route to learn about multi-pitch climbing. Both cruxes are bolted, so all gear placements are on 5.5 rock or easier, making this a good climb for beginning trad leaders. The route has 5 very short pitches with a variety of face, crack, and chimney climbing. To get to the climb park about 1/4 mile above Chimney Rock at a small pullout. Walk back down until almost the far end of the rock, where a steep trail leads to the base of the crag (below George's Buttress). From here, walk back up about 30 yards to the base of the climb. The route starts at a large boulder that's fractured from the main rock. The face above this has two bolts below a large overhanging flake.
Pitch 1 (40 ft): Face climbing with two bolted mantle moves. The second is the crux of the climb (5.7). Belay off natural pro at the base of the chimney.
Pitch 2 (50 ft): Climb the fun chimney (by fun, I mean relative to most chimneys) until you can exit out onto a face with several old pitons. Cross into alcove at right side of the Garden Ledge and belay of natural pro.
Pitch 3 (20 ft): Move belay to a big tree at the left side of Garden Ledge. The route exits up short layback crack (easy 5.7). Belay from tree.
Pitch 4 (80 ft): Move belay left to the end of the big ledge. Climb the fun, easy and airy buttress to its top. Sling a boulder, or belay off natural pro.
Pitch 5 (20 ft): Climb the short spire. Belay off natural pro.
Descend left with some scrambling and a short rappel.