Type: Trad, 200 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 26,147 total · 122/month
Shared By: Almonzo Wilder on Jan 4, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Fire Closure Details

Description

This is a great moderate route to learn about multi-pitch climbing. Both cruxes are bolted, so all gear placements are on 5.5 rock or easier, making this a good climb for beginning trad leaders. The route has 5 very short pitches with a variety of face, crack, and chimney climbing. To get to the climb park about 1/4 mile above Chimney Rock at a small pullout. Walk back down until almost the far end of the rock, where a steep trail leads to the base of the crag (below George's Buttress). From here, walk back up about 30 yards to the base of the climb. The route starts at a large boulder that's fractured from the main rock. The face above this has two bolts below a large overhanging flake.

Pitch 1 (40 ft): Face climbing with two bolted mantle moves. The second is the crux of the climb (5.7). Belay off natural pro at the base of the chimney.

Pitch 2 (50 ft): Climb the fun chimney (by fun, I mean relative to most chimneys) until you can exit out onto a face with several old pitons. Cross into alcove at right side of the Garden Ledge and belay of natural pro.

Pitch 3 (20 ft): Move belay to a big tree at the left side of Garden Ledge. The route exits up short layback crack (easy 5.7). Belay from tree.

Pitch 4 (80 ft): Move belay left to the end of the big ledge. Climb the fun, easy and airy buttress to its top. Sling a boulder, or belay off natural pro.

Pitch 5 (20 ft): Climb the short spire. Belay off natural pro.

Descend left with some scrambling and a short rappel.

Protection

Bring along a full rack including a good range of cams and stoppers. Both cruxes are bolted, and there are a few old pitons at the top of the second pitch.

Photos