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Routes in Salt Lake Slips

Abracadabra T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chalking Dead T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Double Tap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Entre Nous S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forgotten Ambition T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goth Girls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Italian Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maudlin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nosferatu S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Salem's Lot S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Senseless Banter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thieving Magpie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Use-to-be-bushy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Witchhunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zombieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: James Garrett and Nate Bryan, 23 September 2011
Page Views: 5,769 total, 76/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Sep 24, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Good for a quick fix! Fun climbing.

Pitch #1: Climb thin edges and layback a flake-like feature up to the first, of three, roofs. High quality and compact rock with swirling and syrupy features finishes with a spectacular finale on unique rock. 5.8, 35m.

Location

Located 8m to the left of Maudlin (4m to the left of Forgotten Ambition) and about 10m to the right of Senseless Banter.

Rappel the route with a 70m rope, two ropes, or walk off.

Protection

QDs for 12 bolts. Some climbers may elect to carry a small assortment of Camalots and Nuts.

The anchor consists of two Fixe steel lower-off carabiners.

Again, using a rope shorter than 70m and lowering can potentially be dangerous. Tie knots into the ends of your ropes no matter what rope length you use and be careful.
Hi James,

Thanks for clarifying. Agreed for sure, the tragic accident was due to user error. From all witnesses there was no gear or anchor failure at all, despite early reporting by some SLC papers. Sep 18, 2017
Yes, the convenient steel lower off carabiners do NOT negate the need that one should still use one's own locking carabiners when repeatedly lowering and TRing the route. The Steel ones there are already second generation despite the relative young age of the route. The anchor consists of two glue in bolts securing the steel Biners, but I anticipate replacing the steel lower off carabiners once again before winter to insure ongoing safety concerns. The sad accident that occurred earlier in the summer had nothing to do with the fixed equipment on HFCS. Tragically, it was user error. This route REQUIRES a 70m rope or two ropes. Sep 18, 2017
Thanks Jim. I really appreciate the beta. Sep 15, 2017
JimG  
Francis, I climbed this a couple of weeks ago (Sept. 2017) and there were two Fixe steel lowering carabiners on chains as an anchor. The anchor looked in good condition. No need to untie and thread the anchor, but maybe someone inexperienced didn't realize you could just clip in. Seems unlikely, but stuff happens. Sep 14, 2017
Hey everyone,

The anchors for this climb are described as: "The anchor consists of two Fixe steel lower-off carabiners."

Is this still accurate? There was a deadly accident recently on this climb, and it appears the climber was untying for some reason, which would be odd for lower-off biners. Writing an accident report on this. Any info helps.

thx
Francis
Rock and Ice magazine Sep 14, 2017
John Brown  
 
someone claims to do it with a 60' rope is a DF. Not even close. DO NOT LISTEN TO HIM and bring at MINIMUM 70. Someone will end up hurt so take my advice. Jul 19, 2017
Daniel Rushton
Salt Lake City
  5.9-
Daniel Rushton   Salt Lake City
  5.9-
Definitely need the 70M here. Well protected, used one sling on about the 4th or 5th bolt. Super fun! Jun 14, 2016
Jordy Hanson  
 
Nice climb! I felt like the moves were a lot of fun! The 60m was not enough, I walked off. May 11, 2013
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
  5.7
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
  5.7
This route is doable with a single 60 meter rope with some shenanegins. Just watch the rope ends and be ready to down climb the last five feet of easy fifth class terrain. May 4, 2013
Josh Triplett
Bountiful, UT
  5.8
Josh Triplett   Bountiful, UT
  5.8
Just did the onsight today. Fun climb, nice and long. Good pockets and fun roof pulls with plenty to hold onto. I used 2x60 to get down and then TR for my partner. Worked out great. Thanks for the climb, and by the way it has cleaned up pretty nicely, just stay a little right until you pass the second clip. Jun 12, 2012
zoso
  5.8
zoso  
  5.8
Good route and quite clean. If you don't think the remnants of moss will clean up, just look @ the slab to the right. It was all covered in moss one day. Sep 30, 2011