Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Salt Lake Slips

Abracadabra T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chalking Dead T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Double Tap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Entre Nous S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forgotten Ambition T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goth Girls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Italian Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maudlin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nosferatu S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Salem's Lot S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Senseless Banter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thieving Magpie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Use-to-be-bushy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Witchhunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zombieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,297 total · 13/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


27 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Short little chimney on the right edge of the South face. It then climbs a finger crack around the corner. Enjoyable as chimneys go, only too short.

Protection

Standard rack, no fixed gear.

Photos

A Hoffman  
 
This route was actually pretty fun, my second trad lead. I climbed up and traversed over to the anchors for 'goth girl' As stated, the traverse is awkward and made me nervous. It would be a real fun beginner trad route if it had it's own set of anchors.

Also, as someone stated above, rope drag can be avoided by a high first placement and can be further avoided with a piece to redirect just above the chimney section. Jul 10, 2014
Mark Goodro
Puget Sound, Washington
 
Mark Goodro   Puget Sound, Washington
 
I think this is an undeservedly overlooked route. It's not a bad climb, the chimney is fun, the finger crack is short but interesting. It's a good TR if you build an anchor at the top - large gear is helpful there, up to a #5 Camalot. It sounds like the main complaint is the traverse over to the other anchor for descent - which I heartily agree does suck. I think it might be worth adding a bolted anchor at the top of this one - if for no other reason than to preserve the safety of the climbers below. It would be horrifyingly easy to knock large rocks down onto climbers on Salem's Lot and Witch Hunt if you choose to rap from the Witch Hunt anchor. A walk-off to the top of the Slips gully isn't fun either. Aug 20, 2009
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.5
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
  5.5
i wish the chimney were bigger, as it's the funnest part. good route for trad noobs. rope drag is cured with a high first placement. i used a camalot #2. There is however a nosey tree halfway up. and a slightly undesirable traverse to the chains. still worth it. Sep 29, 2008
john richards
salt lake city UT
  5.5
john richards   salt lake city UT
  5.5
avoid this route. horrible rope drag and a dumb walk over to the rap rings not worth it Apr 21, 2008

More About Abracadabra

Printer-Friendly Guide