Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,544 total · 13/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

28 Opinions

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Short little chimney on the right edge of the South face. It then climbs a finger crack around the corner. Enjoyable as chimneys go, only too short.


Standard rack, no fixed gear.


john richards
salt lake city UT
john richards   salt lake city UT
avoid this route. horrible rope drag and a dumb walk over to the rap rings not worth it Apr 21, 2008
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
i wish the chimney were bigger, as it's the funnest part. good route for trad noobs. rope drag is cured with a high first placement. i used a camalot #2. There is however a nosey tree halfway up. and a slightly undesirable traverse to the chains. still worth it. Sep 29, 2008
Mark Goodro
Puget Sound, Washington
Mark Goodro   Puget Sound, Washington
I think this is an undeservedly overlooked route. It's not a bad climb, the chimney is fun, the finger crack is short but interesting. It's a good TR if you build an anchor at the top - large gear is helpful there, up to a #5 Camalot. It sounds like the main complaint is the traverse over to the other anchor for descent - which I heartily agree does suck. I think it might be worth adding a bolted anchor at the top of this one - if for no other reason than to preserve the safety of the climbers below. It would be horrifyingly easy to knock large rocks down onto climbers on Salem's Lot and Witch Hunt if you choose to rap from the Witch Hunt anchor. A walk-off to the top of the Slips gully isn't fun either. Aug 20, 2009
A Hoffman  
This route was actually pretty fun, my second trad lead. I climbed up and traversed over to the anchors for 'goth girl' As stated, the traverse is awkward and made me nervous. It would be a real fun beginner trad route if it had it's own set of anchors.

Also, as someone stated above, rope drag can be avoided by a high first placement and can be further avoided with a piece to redirect just above the chimney section. Jul 10, 2014
Cody Willever
Columbus, NJ
  5.5 PG13
Cody Willever   Columbus, NJ
  5.5 PG13
Fun little climb through the chimney, I suggest not placing any gear until after getting out of the chimney to prevent rope drag and use those alpine draws. Towards the end of the climb where you traverse left, the tree will smack you as you climb over an exposed area. But have no fear, the holds are bomb and the anchors are easy to get to. I suggest belaying from the top to grab gear since the anchors are far out of the way from the chimney. Jun 14, 2018