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Routes in Salt Lake Slips

Abracadabra T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chalking Dead T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Double Tap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Entre Nous S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forgotten Ambition T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goth Girls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Italian Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maudlin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nosferatu S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Salem's Lot S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Senseless Banter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thieving Magpie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Use-to-be-bushy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Witchhunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zombieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tony Calderone, 1992
Page Views: 11,936 total, 68/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Jun 14, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


319 Opinions

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Description

Nice climb follows the arete left of Entre Nous to the anchors above the main ledge. The second pitch continues up and to the right but is not quite as excellent.

Protection

P1: Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor. Shares anchors with Entre Nous which are past the ledge to the right. On a crowded day this could spell H-A-S-S-L-E; consider climbing it as one pitch.

P2:Two bolts to the anchor.
Wic
Rio Rancho, New Mexico
 
Wic   Rio Rancho, New Mexico
 
If you are considering where to go for your first sport lead climb, this is an excellent choice. Not very exposed (on first pitch), bomber holds, and excellent ledge to rap down from at the top of the first pitch. After you get some confidence, add the second pitch to this fun climb! Sep 10, 2015
MRock
 
MRock  
 
exciting arete climbing. has it's own anchors now. barely made it with a 50m with a little rope stretch. lowering in the corner isnt too bad, just go slow. Jul 15, 2013
Jordy Hanson  
 
A great 5.6! Jun 13, 2013
Annie Naylor
Salt Lake City, UT
Annie Naylor   Salt Lake City, UT
Fun 5.6. Consider flipping your ropes around the arete and onto the face (entre nous) to descend. Aug 24, 2012
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
 
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
 
One of the few good 5.6's in the canyon. Jul 30, 2009
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
Incorporated ooo's comments into the description. Nov 13, 2007
Pat Welsh
SLC, UT
 
Pat Welsh   SLC, UT
 
Fun route. cruiser climb on big holds and positive edges, with interesting moves. The crack/corner to the left is a fun easy 5.5 trad climb with fun layback moves. May 7, 2007
Lee Gitlin
  5.6
Lee Gitlin  
  5.6
Lowering from the anchors will tend to swing you into the inside corner, left of the route as you look up. Have your belayer be careful and lower slowly, as this corner is heinous and jagged. May 10, 2004
This is a nice climb for fledgling leaders (like me). Bomber hand and foot holds, especially around the bolts, instill confidence. Use the Tyrolean traverse to cross Big Cottonwood Creek. This will take you to the sport cave. A 100 yard walk around to the right of the cave puts you in front of the slips. Apr 16, 2004