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Routes in Salt Lake Slips

Abracadabra T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chalking Dead T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Double Tap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Entre Nous S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forgotten Ambition T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goth Girls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Italian Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maudlin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nosferatu S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Salem's Lot S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Senseless Banter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thieving Magpie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Use-to-be-bushy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Witchhunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zombieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Shane Willet, Mike Carnahan, 1992
Page Views: 6,832 total, 39/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Jun 14, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


261 Opinions

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Description

A short route but very fun. The wall is very overhanging and looks super hard at first, but then you realize that there are great holds all the way up. Crux is clipping the second bolt and then pulling over the roof towards the third.

This climb is on the south-facing overhung wall down and to the left of the main Slips wall. They are shaded by trees and immediately adjacent to the river. If you're traversing across the river on the tyrolean, look to the left.Nice flat belay area.

Protection

Four bolts to a set of chain anchors at the top.
Matthew Derrell Williams
Holladay, Utah
 
Matthew Derrell Williams   Holladay, Utah
 
You can't see the chains from the ground. After the fourth bolt keeping heading straight up for another 15 feet or so and you'll run into them. Jul 8, 2016
J Saarela
Park City
 
J Saarela   Park City
 
This route is the reason to go around the corner from the main routes. Great holds, fun movement through the roof. A bit runout from clip 4 to the chains (hard to see from the start) but by that point you're on 5.7 moves. Bring a wrench, the anchor bolts are spinning, and are getting a bit rusty. Little bit of rope drag/running over edges, especially when lowering, so be aware of this if you're really protective of your rope. Oct 25, 2015
Bonneville Williams
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10a
Bonneville Williams   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10a
Awesome route! By far one of my fav's in BCC. Very similar look and feel to the Potstash route on Wallstreet down in Moab. The only thing preventing this from being a classic is the short length. Feb 18, 2014
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.9+
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.9+
Easy climbing up to the roof, crux being clipping the bolt before the roof and pulling it. Looks harder than it is, with a massive jug right by the bolt making an easy clip. Dont go out right and cheat yourself. Definitely a one move wonder. 5.9+. Sep 20, 2013
Gabriel Tallent
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Gabriel Tallent   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Easy 5.7 or 5.8 moves to the roof, and then as soon as you pull the roof, the climb eases back again. The roof moves are powerful and secure, but they would be pretty daunting for a 5.8 leader, I think. This makes the route a little hard to grade. Don't cheat out right. Sep 2, 2013
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
  5.10a
one move wonder. Sep 17, 2008
JeffM
SLC
  5.10a
JeffM   SLC
  5.10a
I climbed Witchhunt this a.m. for the first time. After clipping bolt #3, I down climbed a little and rested. Then, fired through the super steep section. Nice to have such a steep section with big holds. Well bolted. 5.10a, two stars (because it's so short). Aug 8, 2008
McRae Williams
5.10a/b
McRae Williams  
5.10a/b
This was a very short but epic route. The crux is most definitely under and pulling the roof, easy after that. This BCC route is not to be missed. Jun 3, 2008
This is a fun route to start leading over a roof. The holds are there and pretty big if you get your feet in the right spot. One caution if lowering or repelling off, if you attempt to stay to the right until lowering past the roof, you will swing a great deal and your rope will be dragged over a fairly nasty edge. Oh and watch for the tree just below the chains. May 26, 2008
john richards
salt lake city UT
  5.10a
john richards   salt lake city UT
  5.10a
easy solid climb for new leaders. The roof is a head game. Feet and hands are there. Apr 21, 2008
John Bradford
Yellowstone National Park
  5.10
John Bradford   Yellowstone National Park
  5.10
Can't say I agree with a 5.8 rating, it certainly feels harder than that, though everything through the roof is extremely positive, the trick is staying on the face and not cheating the corner. This and Salem's Lot are a good quick outing when the water is low. PLus, there are not too many more pleasant settings on a hot summer day. Mar 29, 2008
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
 
Ryan Peterson   North Salt Lake, Utah
 
I thought this was easy as anything on the other side of the wall. Awkward bolting positions though, bring a few long runners

Can't say it felt harder than a 5.8 Jun 9, 2007
Rebecca Airmet
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a/b
Rebecca Airmet   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a/b
A great climb! If you're top-roping it, consider clipping the third/second bolt on rappel to avoid too much swing away from the route if you pop off.

And not to admit to being a wimp, but... you can set a top rope on the climb without being a .10a climber. After clipping the second bolt, standing on the last big ledge below the roof, you can step to your right on to a ledge, climb the 5.7 slab above, skip the third bolt and clip the fourth, and continue to the chains. This probably goes at about 5.9, but the "runout" part is easier. Aug 14, 2006
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.10a
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.10a
Beware that the very good jug below the third bolt is loosening! Dec 6, 2004
One of my favorite climbs in BCC. I would say the crux is between the second and third bolt. Once you clip the third bolt, its just a matter of pulling on some big holds. Nov 12, 2004
Lee Gitlin
  5.10b
Lee Gitlin  
  5.10b
I agree that the crux is pulling the roof. But I think that move is between the 3rd and 4th bolt? A fall here means a long whipper into space. The route is significantly easier above the roof (5.6-5.7 range). Have fun! Apr 26, 2004
Nathan Fisher
  5.10c
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10c
Pumping climb, and enjoyable, a hard 10a. Apr 8, 2004