Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Shane Willet, Mike Carnahan, 1992
Page Views: 7,496 total · 39/month
Shared By: Eric Jacobsen on Jun 14, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

269 Opinions

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A short route but very fun. The wall is very overhanging and looks super hard at first, but then you realize that there are great holds all the way up. Crux is clipping the second bolt and then pulling over the roof towards the third.

This climb is on the south-facing overhung wall down and to the left of the main Slips wall. They are shaded by trees and immediately adjacent to the river. If you're traversing across the river on the tyrolean, look to the left.Nice flat belay area.


Four bolts to a set of chain anchors at the top.


Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
Pumping climb, and enjoyable, a hard 10a. Apr 8, 2004
Lee Gitlin
Lee Gitlin  
I agree that the crux is pulling the roof. But I think that move is between the 3rd and 4th bolt? A fall here means a long whipper into space. The route is significantly easier above the roof (5.6-5.7 range). Have fun! Apr 26, 2004
One of my favorite climbs in BCC. I would say the crux is between the second and third bolt. Once you clip the third bolt, its just a matter of pulling on some big holds. Nov 12, 2004
Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
Bobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
Beware that the very good jug below the third bolt is loosening! Dec 6, 2004
Rebecca Airmet
Salt Lake City, UT
Rebecca Airmet   Salt Lake City, UT
A great climb! If you're top-roping it, consider clipping the third/second bolt on rappel to avoid too much swing away from the route if you pop off.

And not to admit to being a wimp, but... you can set a top rope on the climb without being a .10a climber. After clipping the second bolt, standing on the last big ledge below the roof, you can step to your right on to a ledge, climb the 5.7 slab above, skip the third bolt and clip the fourth, and continue to the chains. This probably goes at about 5.9, but the "runout" part is easier. Aug 14, 2006
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
Ryan Peterson   North Salt Lake, Utah
I thought this was easy as anything on the other side of the wall. Awkward bolting positions though, bring a few long runners

Can't say it felt harder than a 5.8 Jun 9, 2007
John Bradford
Yellowstone National Park
John Bradford   Yellowstone National Park
Can't say I agree with a 5.8 rating, it certainly feels harder than that, though everything through the roof is extremely positive, the trick is staying on the face and not cheating the corner. This and Salem's Lot are a good quick outing when the water is low. PLus, there are not too many more pleasant settings on a hot summer day. Mar 29, 2008
john richards
salt lake city UT
john richards   salt lake city UT
easy solid climb for new leaders. The roof is a head game. Feet and hands are there. Apr 21, 2008
This is a fun route to start leading over a roof. The holds are there and pretty big if you get your feet in the right spot. One caution if lowering or repelling off, if you attempt to stay to the right until lowering past the roof, you will swing a great deal and your rope will be dragged over a fairly nasty edge. Oh and watch for the tree just below the chains. May 26, 2008
McRae Williams
McRae Williams  
This was a very short but epic route. The crux is most definitely under and pulling the roof, easy after that. This BCC route is not to be missed. Jun 3, 2008
JeffM   SLC
I climbed Witchhunt this a.m. for the first time. After clipping bolt #3, I down climbed a little and rested. Then, fired through the super steep section. Nice to have such a steep section with big holds. Well bolted. 5.10a, two stars (because it's so short). Aug 8, 2008
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
one move wonder. Sep 17, 2008
Gabriel Tallent
Salt Lake City, UT
Gabriel Tallent   Salt Lake City, UT
Easy 5.7 or 5.8 moves to the roof, and then as soon as you pull the roof, the climb eases back again. The roof moves are powerful and secure, but they would be pretty daunting for a 5.8 leader, I think. This makes the route a little hard to grade. Don't cheat out right. Sep 2, 2013
Garrett C
Garrett C   SL, UT
Easy climbing up to the roof, crux being clipping the bolt before the roof and pulling it. Looks harder than it is, with a massive jug right by the bolt making an easy clip. Dont go out right and cheat yourself. Definitely a one move wonder. 5.9+. Sep 20, 2013
Bonneville Williams
Salt Lake City, Utah
Bonneville Williams   Salt Lake City, Utah
Awesome route! By far one of my fav's in BCC. Very similar look and feel to the Potstash route on Wallstreet down in Moab. The only thing preventing this from being a classic is the short length. Feb 18, 2014
J Saarela
Park City
J Saarela   Park City
This route is the reason to go around the corner from the main routes. Great holds, fun movement through the roof. A bit runout from clip 4 to the chains (hard to see from the start) but by that point you're on 5.7 moves. Bring a wrench, the anchor bolts are spinning, and are getting a bit rusty. Little bit of rope drag/running over edges, especially when lowering, so be aware of this if you're really protective of your rope. Oct 25, 2015
Matthew Williams
Holladay, UT
Matthew Williams   Holladay, UT
You can't see the chains from the ground. After the fourth bolt keeping heading straight up for another 15 feet or so and you'll run into them. Jul 8, 2016
Alex Diamond  
There used to be an amazing hold next to the second bolt (crux) but it is currently broken. Someone had ticked and arrow next to it and when you grab it the hold will shift back. I tried removing it but it is stuck pretty good, I doubt it will hold real weight tho. I marked it in chalk with an X and a big NO. I'm sure it'll break eventually just hopefully not when someone is clipping that bolt as that fall could be bad. Luckily there is also a bomber hold on the right of the shark fin by the bolt. Super fun route, doesn't look nearly as tricky from the ground Jun 21, 2018