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Routes in Salt Lake Slips

Abracadabra T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chalking Dead T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Double Tap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Entre Nous S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forgotten Ambition T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goth Girls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Italian Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maudlin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nosferatu S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Salem's Lot S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Senseless Banter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thieving Magpie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Use-to-be-bushy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Witchhunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zombieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Kris Pietryga and James Garrett, 23 November 2007
Page Views: 3,484 total, 28/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Nov 23, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


101 Opinions

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Description

A short, pumpy warm up climb for the longer routes to the right. The well-protected crux is surmounting the first of two roofs in the middle of the crag.

Location

On the south facing side of the Salt Lake Slips, Nosferatu starts up just to the left of the pine tree 20 feet to the left (west) of Salem's Lot. Given its location, its length, and its pump factor, this fun climb should prove to be popular.

Protection

4 bolts protect this short pitch to a two bolt belay anchor on top.

Photos

zoso
 
zoso  
 
5.9 if you find the easiest way, but straight up is more fun. Sep 14, 2017
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.10a
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.10a
Climbed this several times trying to figure out the route. Agree with James - ton of chalk to the left but if you climb out left (where the chalk is) feels more like 5.9. Climb the face where the bolts are and its definitely more fun! Big juggs and a tiny face smear at the end on a small piece of polished rock. No loose holds as of today. Definitely a fun addition! 10a because route is so short and several resting places. Aug 30, 2013
James Logan
5.10b
James Logan  
5.10b
I honestly felt it was in the 5.9 range. Fun, pumpy but pretty easy. Pretty juggy holds all the way up.
5.9
24 hours later- I went back and climbed it again today. It is definately 5.10, 5.10b is probably pretty good. You have to climb on the right. Based on all the chalk, most are cheating off to the left which would be 5.8/5.9 (super juggy). Aug 3, 2012
Josh Triplett
Bountiful, UT
 
Josh Triplett   Bountiful, UT
 
Fun little warm up climb. Holds in all the right places for the two little roof problems. Watch the z-clip between bolts 2&3. I felt they would have been better maybe a little further apart, but great holds to clip. I would say 10a as well. Jun 12, 2012
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
  5.9+
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
  5.9+
This climb was pretty cool. 5.10b is probably too high, when you compare it to witch hunt, dog pile, or chambered nautilus. Thanks James for putting these wonderful climbs up! It sure makes for an enjoyable time. One day you'll have to show me how to bolt routes. ;) Sep 18, 2009
chris21
  5.10a
chris21  
  5.10a
fun route, it had some loose rock, the second and third bolts were very close together, it felt pretty easy for 10b Sep 3, 2009
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
  5.10a
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
  5.10a
I didn't think this was any harder than Witchhunt. Didn't really have an issue with the chains either. There is a fun mantel move at the top if you are in the mood. Aug 9, 2009
I went back, enjoyed the climb alot more than before, but despite being armed to the teeth with chain, links, extensions, etc. I just couldn't figure out what the problem (as described above) with the anchor was?? The only conceivable way that the lower bolt could possibly be leveraged would be if it was the only bolt clipped...and who does that at the top anchor of a two bolt belay??

I left it as it was....seemed righteous enough to both me and my partner?? May 27, 2009
I will be happy to adjust the chains at the next opportunity, but I should hope anyone feels more than welcome to lug the chain up themselves and make the desired adjustments...especially if you enjoy TRing and lowering off the chain. "Correcting" or "bettering" belays and top anchors are always fine with me!
thanks Nov 13, 2008
Aaron Collins
Santan Valley, AZ
Aaron Collins   Santan Valley, AZ
Just saw it and climbed it today. Fun and great little addition to the Puritan Area:) I agree on the chains.We'll see if it gets fixed ;) Oct 16, 2008
the second bolt is located too close to the edge of the roof, resulting in potentially levering the biner's spine to the breaking point if one were to fall there.

The anchors need the chain extended a bit as well, as the current setup is less than desirable. Sep 8, 2008
John Bradford
Yellowstone National Park
  5.10b
John Bradford   Yellowstone National Park
  5.10b
Still cleaning up, but not too bad. I pulled several loose rocks out at the first crux. There are good stances for all the clips. Aug 29, 2008
Mark D Evans
Sandy, UT
  5.10b
Mark D Evans   Sandy, UT
  5.10b
Short, pumpy, and fun is a great description. There are a few loose holds as you head up the roofs, so pull carefully. But with some traffic, this should clean up a bit. Good addition to the area for sure. May 5, 2008