Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Salt Lake Slips

Abracadabra T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chalking Dead T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Double Tap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Entre Nous S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forgotten Ambition T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goth Girls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Italian Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maudlin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nosferatu S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Salem's Lot S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Senseless Banter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thieving Magpie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Use-to-be-bushy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Witchhunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zombieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: James Garrett and Glen Kaplan, 21 November 2007
Page Views: 6,945 total, 57/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Nov 22, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


173 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This bolted, moderate line adds some variety and choice to the few well-protected and very well-traveled routes on this popular wall.

Pitch #1: To the left of the main cleft or dihedral which is to the left of the popular Italian Arete, climb up a slight spur of rock passing two small roofs on mostly big, climber-friendly holds. Continue to the top of the wall to a two-bolt belay. 5.7.

Carefully rappel the route or lower with a 70m rope. Walking off may be safer and recommended. Rappel x 2 via midway ledge to right won't leave you hanging.

Location

This is on the East Face of the Salt Lake City Slips. An obvious bolted long line climbs between the Italian Arete and Forgotten Ambition (I think mostly a forgotten route, as well?).

This is a long route....longer than the average sport route in the vicinity and elsewhere in BCC. Descent can be achieved by walking off or by rappelling with a 70m rope (two ropes is probably better). Many of the bolts are glue-in stainless steel, so if you choose to rappel the route with one 50m or one 60m rope x two that would be yet another option.

Protection

12 QDs
Kyle Rummens
North Salt Lake, UT
 
Kyle Rummens   North Salt Lake, UT
 
If not very many people are in the area, you can split this route into two pitches by using the chains of Italian Arete. We did this because we didn't have enough quick draws with us. Also, we had to do 2 rappels to get to the bottom (using the same chains we used when coming up). DO NOT RAPPEL WITH A 60M ROPE! YOU'LL BE 15 FEET SHORT Jul 30, 2016
Wic
Rio Rancho, New Mexico
 
Wic   Rio Rancho, New Mexico
 
You can also climb this as a single pitch; climb up first pitch and rap down from the anchors at top of first pitch on Italian Arete. Great climb to take friends on who are new to climbing. Sep 10, 2015
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Nice easy long climb. Good place for new leaders or beginners to top rope. We did it with a 60m rope and belayed from the top. You can repel to the anchors on Italian Arete to get down or just hike down. Sep 8, 2011
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
this route is a nice way to get out of the gulley if you hiked in from the storm mtn picnic area. the belay at the top is a descent stance with plenty of room for a pack, and your party to unrope. May 3, 2011
Eric Leis
Holladay, Utah
Eric Leis   Holladay, Utah
I've climbed this multiple times and it is still really enjoyable. I find it a great place to bring newer climbers and let them feel what a nice consistent long climb feels like. Jun 4, 2010
mattjbudd
West Valley, UT
  5.5
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
  5.5
This is a very enjoyable climb. Great addition. Unfortunately it can only be climbed with a 70m rope, and it barely reaches. At the same time, it's the length that makes it super enjoyable. Thanks again James for the routes! BTW the bolting was perfect. Sep 18, 2009
chris21
  5.7
chris21  
  5.7
did it as two pitches using anchors off to the right above the ledge Sep 3, 2009
Zirkel
Bishop, CA
 
Zirkel   Bishop, CA
 
What an amazingly fun route! It's long, semi-steep (at least for 5.7), and exposed. My new favorite BCC date climb. Nov 8, 2008
WasatchChic
Salt Lake, Utah
  5.7
WasatchChic   Salt Lake, Utah
  5.7
This is a good addition to the Slips! Still extremely beginner friendly, but nice and long. Aug 6, 2008
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.7
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
  5.7
Oh Glen... Love it! Great way to exit the slips without having to hike up the scree. Solid 5.7 with plenty of bolts. Don't change it. Interesting choice for the anchor gear. May 18, 2008
Hi, yea, no worries,....I thought Forgotten Ambition goes right of the final pillar up the right facing dihedral. So the routes cross right below there. What do you think? I knew they intersected twice, (down low and up high) but have convinced myself they are essentially independent of each other....thanks for your comments. I do know that FA is a Forgotten route!!!! Jan 11, 2008
Craig Martin
Park City
  5.7
Craig Martin   Park City
  5.7
Hi James. Pretty fun climbing on this one. The length and bolt placements seemed about right to me. We rapped with a 70m rope and just barely made it with a short easy downclimb. Probably won't work for yo-yoing. Easy enough to get down using one of the many anchors on the big ledge.

As for controversy, doesn't this cross over the top of Forgotten Ambition? Don't really want to stir things up, who climbs Forgotten Ambition anyways? I never have. But I thought it deserved mentioning. Jan 3, 2008