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Routes in Salt Lake Slips

Abracadabra T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chalking Dead T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Tap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Entre Nous S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forgotten Ambition T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goth Girls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Italian Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maudlin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nosferatu S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Salem's Lot S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Senseless Banter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thieving Magpie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Use-to-be-bushy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Witchhunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zombieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tony Calderone and Stan Cantrell climbed this in 1994
Page Views: 2,649 total · 21/month
Shared By: Ross Downard on Apr 26, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

This Is great beginner Trad line that shares anchors with italian arete. Climb the dihedral just to the left of italian arete, follow the inward corner crack all the way to the two chain anchors. Good stances, good protection and an abundance of face holds on both sides of the dihedral.

Location [Suggest Change]

On the main wall of the slips just between italian arete 5.6 and maudlin 5.7.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard Rack, will take a little of everything. chain anchors

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Stymingersfink  
  4th
Uhhh... What?


that's a solo line, a child could climb that, and probably would, if their parents weren't keeping such a sharp eye on them.

if this were a route, it would barely be fifth class.

really.


well, ok. more like 4th+ class. It's the downclimb for soloing slips routes, fer cris-sakes!


rly. Apr 29, 2008
Um, yeah. Thats not 4th class. People downclimb 5th class all the time, the Casual Route on the Diamond has been downclimbed solo, does that make it 4th class? Jun 26, 2009
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.4
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.4
NOT 4th class. Somewhere between 5.3-5.5 feels right. Nice for drytooling since it's so dirty anyways. Dec 24, 2010
gen-eva
Salt Lake City
gen-eva   Salt Lake City
There's no need for Stymingersfink's hating... This is simply a good "learning" route.
Yes, this route is extremely easy, but it's a great place to learn to place gear, with easy rests everywhere, almost zero risk of falling, and ample placement opportunities. Also a good route to bring kids or timid beginners to. Aug 25, 2012
Craig Martin
Park City
Craig Martin   Park City
R.I.P Stymingersfink. Aug 25, 2012
Rockie Suz
Ontario, CA
Rockie Suz   Ontario, CA
He had a great sense of humour, reading this made me laugh, and you could tell he was an amazing climber, we didn't get to climb together as he couldn't easily come up, but I had intended to come to Utah and climb with him at some point and he would've been my guide, obviously that wasn't to be, miss interacting with that guy 'Sty'

R.I.P Oct 2, 2016

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