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Routes in Salt Lake Slips

Abracadabra T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chalking Dead T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Double Tap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Entre Nous S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forgotten Ambition T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goth Girls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Italian Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maudlin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nosferatu S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Salem's Lot S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Senseless Banter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thieving Magpie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Use-to-be-bushy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Witchhunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zombieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Carl Dec & Billy Smallen
Page Views: 3,762 total, 60/month
Shared By: cdec on Oct 4, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Climbs the face bolt to bolt occasionally using the arĂȘte down low. Thin hands and feet through the roof to jugs on the face above.

Location

Starts directly above rightmost anchor on the ledge. Done most easily by starting on Zombieland though any of the lower routes get you to the ledge.
2 raps or 1double rope rappel down Zombieland. Can walk off.

Protection

6 draws to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

greggrylls
Salt Lake City
  5.8
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
  5.8
Good rock, well protected. The smooth slab by bolt 2 was the crux for me. It's fun working out the roof move. Aug 22, 2017
Zombie land to double tap and then rap down to climb chalking dead is an awesome way to spend an afternoon! Dynamic moves, great protection easy to access. Fine work boys!! Aug 21, 2015
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.8+
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.8+
Climb "roll the bones" to chains, belay second up to ledge, then go right to another set of chains. We used this station to belay. Was able to rap down to ground BARELY with a 70 from top of this climb, although we landed in some brush. Recommend tying knots in ends if you rap from top, but can be done. Really fun climb. Crux is the small roof. Nov 4, 2013
ddriver
SLC
  5.8
ddriver   SLC
  5.8
Clean bullet-proof rock, fun route. Sep 30, 2013
It may be a good idea to top rope these routes from the top anchor. There can be some drag on a semi sharp edge. Plus it's a great way to get some seclusion when the slips get crowded. Because these routes are new there is potential for breakage of some hold especially around the roofs and loose rocks on the belay ledges. THere is not a lot of helmet wearing that happens at the slips so be extra careful. Good addition to great moderate area. Oct 9, 2012