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Routes in Salt Lake Slips

Abracadabra T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chalking Dead T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Double Tap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Entre Nous S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forgotten Ambition T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Goth Girls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Italian Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maudlin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nosferatu S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Salem's Lot S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Senseless Banter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thieving Magpie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Use-to-be-bushy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Witchhunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zombieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Scott Unice, Julie Gustin 1990
Page Views: 2,996 total, 19/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Oct 10, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Just left of Italian Arete is a face with a pair of cracks splitting it. Forgotten Ambition climbs this face, continuing upward to a face with 1 bolt and then up to a right-facing fold of rock that doesn't protect too well. A nice long route with some nice sequences, albeit interspersed with too much bad rock, and easy sequences. A nice way to kill time if the Slips are too busy, otherwise don't make a special trip for this route.

Protection

1 bolt on the route is all the fixed gear. You can utilize anchors for the 2nd pitch of Italian Arete. Small gear protects the inital cracks well, followed by medium to large gear the rest of the way

Photos

user id
Ogden, Utah
user id   Ogden, Utah
You probably weren't that far left, just another victim of a trademark squeeze job. Aug 26, 2012
gen-eva
Salt Lake City
gen-eva   Salt Lake City
Ok, it could have been HFCS, I just didn't think we were that far to the left. The description fits pretty well, though. I'll retract my previous comments just to be safe. Thanks for looking out. Aug 26, 2012
Craig Martin
Park City
Craig Martin   Park City
OK, I haven't been there in a while. Maybe you climbed this route High Fructose Corn Syrup? The description says 8 meters left of Maudlin and 4 meters left of Forgotten Ambition. Aug 26, 2012
Craig Martin
Park City
Craig Martin   Park City
gen-eva
53 mins ago
This route is now fully bolted, including 'biner anchors at the top.
Pretty easy for a 5.9, IMHO. Very enjoyable for someone new to leading routes.

You probably climbed this route Maudlin, and yes it is easy for 5.9, probably because it is a 5.7 Aug 25, 2012