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Routes in Salt Lake Slips

Abracadabra T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chalking Dead T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Tap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Entre Nous S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forgotten Ambition T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goth Girls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Italian Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maudlin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nosferatu S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Salem's Lot S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Senseless Banter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thieving Magpie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Use-To-Be-Bushy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Witchhunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zombieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Billy Smallen and Carl Dec -- 9/24/12
Page Views: 3,536 total · 48/month
Shared By: Billy Smallen on Sep 24, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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The Climbing

This great corner throws all sort of BCC style your way. Juggy roofs, splitter cracks, and tricky gear--all in 60 ft!

The corner is the right-most of the two prominent corners located off the ledge above and to the right of Roll the Bones, with the other one being Zombieland's second pitch. It shares anchors at the top and bottom with Double Tap.

Climb up with sparse gear for 10 feet. As the climbing gets harder the gear gets better. Keep moving up past jugs and around a roof to the point where the crack ends. Clip the bolt and face climb on jugs to gain a splitter widening finger crack, which takes you around a roof. Keep moving through hidden finger pods to more jugs and the top of the climb.

How to Find It

This route takes off from the ledge that runs from the top of Italian ArĂȘte to Zombieland. Climb any of the routes between these to gain the ledge, with Zombieland being the most direct. Belay from either of the right-most sets of anchor bolts and head over to the corner! Chalking Dead can be toproped after leading pitch 2 of Zombieland or Double Tap, as all three share anchors.

To Descend: There are bolts with rap chains on top. Either do a double-rope rap to the ground or two single rope raps utilizing the anchors on top of pitch 1 of Zombieland. Alternatively, you can walk off after topping out by heading north and following the trail across the formation. You can get back down to the base using the trail through the scree field gully or you can take the trail back up to Storm Mountain if you parked there.


Mostly fingers to hand size pieces and one bolt. A double rack from #0.3 to #1 Camalot and a draw for the bolt will be fine. Stoppers are useful in several places. There are anchor bolts and rap chains at the top.

A huge thank you to Carl for his massive cleaning job!


nice little crack, heads up for hornets flying out of the roof jugs! always good to see someone putting in the time to make new routes! Oct 7, 2012
ddriver   SLC
Super fun position, fingerlocks all the way, worthwhile even if it is short. Four tcu's was plenty gear for this. Sep 30, 2013
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
Best climb at the slips. Gear is a little tricky, especially once you want to plug in pieces to your handholds at the crux. Didn't use anything larger than a .5 Camalot for the whole climb. Great rock quality where it counts. Oct 31, 2013
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
Everything at the slips feels really, really soft. This is the easiest 5.9 I've ever led. Felt more like an easy 8 or a solid 7 - so don't be intimidated if you're not leading 5.9s on gear yet but feel good at 5.8. The pitch is, however, super fun. The gear is good. A yellow TCU protects the roof. Nov 9, 2013
ddriver   SLC
This route description is actually for the left-facing dihedral at far right. There are no bolts. Mar 18, 2015
cdec   SLC, UT
Indeed it is for the left facing corner on the far right.
The original bolt is still there and it protects getting to the roof.

I climbed Ziombie land, double tap and this on 8/15 and they are really fun and will only get better with more traffic.
Climb them! Aug 16, 2015
Salt Lake City
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
Garret and Sam's descriptions are spot on. Climbed this today. I eyed this before when doing zombieland but thought gear looked bad and the corner looked dirty. I was wrong I didn't feel that the gear was particularly tricky. It can be very well protected with small cams to .5 and there are loads of bomber nuts placements. Both this and double tap are short but fun. Aug 22, 2017
Salt Lake City
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
Did this again and still fun! Nuts are clutch near the roof, they don't block your handholds and so so bomber.

Maybe I gardened for some gear lower or just was feeling braver last time but I didn't find much gear lower down and ended up 15 or 20 feet up before I got something in. Gear is a little weird down low so take what you can get if a new leader. I think the bush and plants are just retaking the corner low on the route. Gardened and fixed it a bit Jun 27, 2018

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