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Routes in Salt Lake Slips
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Abracadabra T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Bones 2nd Pitch S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Chalking Dead T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cornication S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Double Tap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Entre Nous S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Forgotten Ambition T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Goth Girls S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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High Fructose Corn Syrup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hippie Chicks T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Italian Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Maudlin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Nosferatu S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Salem's Lot S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Senseless Banter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sensible banter ( variation of Senseless Banter) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thieving Magpie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Use-To-Be-Bushy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Witchhunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Zombieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Billy Smallen and Carl Dec -- 9/24/12 |
| Page Views: | 5,133 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Billy Smallen on Sep 24, 2012 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
The Climbing
This great corner throws all sort of BCC style your way. Juggy roofs, splitter cracks, and tricky gear--all in 60 ft!
The corner is the right-most of the two prominent corners located off the ledge above and to the right of Roll the Bones, with the other one being Zombieland's second pitch. It shares anchors at the top and bottom with Double Tap.
Climb up with sparse gear for 10 feet. As the climbing gets harder the gear gets better. Keep moving up past jugs and around a roof to the point where the crack ends. Clip the bolt and face climb on jugs to gain a splitter widening finger crack, which takes you around a roof. Keep moving through hidden finger pods to more jugs and the top of the climb.
The corner is the right-most of the two prominent corners located off the ledge above and to the right of Roll the Bones, with the other one being Zombieland's second pitch. It shares anchors at the top and bottom with Double Tap.
Climb up with sparse gear for 10 feet. As the climbing gets harder the gear gets better. Keep moving up past jugs and around a roof to the point where the crack ends. Clip the bolt and face climb on jugs to gain a splitter widening finger crack, which takes you around a roof. Keep moving through hidden finger pods to more jugs and the top of the climb.
How to Find It
This route takes off from the ledge that runs from the top of Italian Arête to Zombieland. Climb any of the routes between these to gain the ledge, with Zombieland being the most direct. Belay from either of the right-most sets of anchor bolts and head over to the corner! Chalking Dead can be toproped after leading pitch 2 of Zombieland or Double Tap, as all three share anchors.
To Descend: There are bolts with rap chains on top. Either do a double-rope rap to the ground or two single rope raps utilizing the anchors on top of pitch 1 of Zombieland. Alternatively, you can walk off after topping out by heading north and following the trail across the formation. You can get back down to the base using the trail through the scree field gully or you can take the trail back up to Storm Mountain if you parked there.
To Descend: There are bolts with rap chains on top. Either do a double-rope rap to the ground or two single rope raps utilizing the anchors on top of pitch 1 of Zombieland. Alternatively, you can walk off after topping out by heading north and following the trail across the formation. You can get back down to the base using the trail through the scree field gully or you can take the trail back up to Storm Mountain if you parked there.
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