Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Scott Unice, Julie Gustin 1990
Page Views: 1,947 total · 10/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Long trad lead with adequate protection. This climbs the left side of the face left of Italian Arete. Face moves and crack moves. When I lead this I lost my 1st piece, and got a little nervous so I placed a piece directly under the flake before the face with the bolt. I didn't put a runner on it and my partner didn't correct me. The rest of the way up the climb it felt like I was pulling an elephant. Man, was I glad to see the top.

Protection

1 bolt, 1 piton, lots of gear. Bring the small gear especially.

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John Steiger
  5.9
John Steiger  
  5.9
I’ve got to disagree with those who have voted a bomb for this one. Compared to other 5.9 trad routes in BCC, this ranks right up there, IMO, with some great sections of slabby quartize. Even the Ruckmans give it 1 out of 3 stars. The pin was missing when we did it, but decent pro can be found with a modern rack (i.e., microcams, etc.). Good belay from gear on top, with an easy walk to Maudlin’s anchors to descend—35m rap to the ground. Aug 23, 2011