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Routes in Salt Lake Slips

Abracadabra T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chalking Dead T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Tap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Entre Nous S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forgotten Ambition T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goth Girls S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Italian Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maudlin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nosferatu S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Salem's Lot S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Senseless Banter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thieving Magpie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Use-To-Be-Bushy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Witchhunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zombieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Scott Unice, Julie Gustin 1990
Page Views: 1,926 total · 10/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Long trad lead with adequate protection. This climbs the left side of the face left of Italian Arete. Face moves and crack moves. When I lead this I lost my 1st piece, and got a little nervous so I placed a piece directly under the flake before the face with the bolt. I didn't put a runner on it and my partner didn't correct me. The rest of the way up the climb it felt like I was pulling an elephant. Man, was I glad to see the top.

Protection

1 bolt, 1 piton, lots of gear. Bring the small gear especially.

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John Steiger
  5.9
John Steiger  
  5.9
I’ve got to disagree with those who have voted a bomb for this one. Compared to other 5.9 trad routes in BCC, this ranks right up there, IMO, with some great sections of slabby quartize. Even the Ruckmans give it 1 out of 3 stars. The pin was missing when we did it, but decent pro can be found with a modern rack (i.e., microcams, etc.). Good belay from gear on top, with an easy walk to Maudlin’s anchors to descend—35m rap to the ground. Aug 23, 2011

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