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Routes in Salt Lake Slips

Abracadabra T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chalking Dead T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Tap S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Entre Nous S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forgotten Ambition T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goth Girls S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
High Fructose Corn Syrup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Italian Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maudlin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nosferatu S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roll the Bones S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Salem's Lot S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Senseless Banter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thieving Magpie S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Use-To-Be-Bushy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Witchhunt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zombieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Paul Hodges, Ray Dahl 1992
Page Views: 5,551 total · 28/month
Shared By: Mason on Jul 13, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

As far as 5.7's go, this one is pretty sweet.

The crux is above the second bolt and includes the third and fourth bolts. Pretty slim pickings there, and long arms help. There is a plate sized bulge in that section that works more as a distraction than anything, but it sure looks good while your on top of it.

Juggy on top. This climb is clearly rated a 5.7 for the lower half.

Protection

6 quickdraws. Recommend a couple of longer ones for the lower section.

Photos

Eric Jacobsen  
5.8


I thought the crux of this one was just as difficult as Entre Nous to the left, though the entire climb isn't quite as sustained. Sep 19, 2003
A hard start for a 5.7 climb. Some desperate and slabby times there. It is easy to get sucked right toward the Roll the Bones (5.6), because the holds are easier (duh). We were able to use the plate-sized bulge for both hands and feet. The top section is much juggier and faster. Nice ledge at the top, but it makes for much rope friction lowering off. Apr 16, 2004
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
Ryan Peterson   North Salt Lake, Utah
Climbed today (June 9), bolt is still a spinner, but the crux is below it, so it's easy climbing once you're to it. Jun 9, 2007
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
  5.8-
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
  5.8-
area is definitely not grid-bolted. this route seems stiff at the shield, but totally doable and certainly not contrived. I'd say it's at least 5.8 because of the start and the thin crux. good route. i have no idea what everyone is arguing about. Sep 17, 2008
Tyler Slack
Eagle Mountain, Utah
5.8-
Tyler Slack   Eagle Mountain, Utah
5.8-
Climbed the slips on 8/5/11 and the Tyrolean Traverse wasn't there. We hiked in on the great trail from Storm Mountain up past the right side of the amphitheater and I'm just as pleased with that approach as I was coming across the river. I've played in this canyon since I was a kid and I couldn't believe I'd never seen the canyon from that angle before and I was glad that something finally forced me up there. Aug 6, 2011
Annie Naylor
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Annie Naylor   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Fun 5.7. I thought the rating was accurate. Not much more difficult than the 5.6 just to the right although it does have some small feet and crimpy hands. This would make a great beginner lead. I did notice a spinning bolt- 4th or 5th, I can't remember which. Watch them! Aug 22, 2012
Wic
Rio Rancho, New Mexico
  5.8-
Wic   Rio Rancho, New Mexico
  5.8-
Fun climb! I agree with what was said about the rating - I would also rate it 5.8- due to the crux holds (or lack thereof!). Climbed today and didn't see the rope traverse across the river. The fifth bolt is still a spinner (maybe I'll bring a wrench next time and try to tighten it a bit). This is a good route to practice some crimping on! I loved this area because there are lots of climbs in close proximity to each other, and each climb gives a different feel and experience with the wall. Can't wait to go back and check out the Italian Arete. Climb on! May 4, 2014
Second to last bolt is spinning. I'm willing to help switch it out, if someone is willing to teach me while we do it. Mar 9, 2015

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