Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jason Pietryga, Kris Pietryga, and James Garrett, June 2012
Page Views: 3,392 total · 42/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jun 16, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

100 Opinions

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A consistent and sustained 5.10b route that will dominate your attention and focus.

Pitch #1: A punishing start to pass the first bolt and overhang and trend left to thin face moves to dark overlapping roofs and a foreboding finish on top with a two-bolt belay. 5.10b, 25m.

Rappel the pitch.


This starts 2m to the right of the initial chimney of Abracadabra. Far right on this shady south facing wall next to the creek. Perfect for summer cragging.


QDs for 6 bolts. Three-bolt belay chain anchor.


Josh Triplett
Bountiful, UT
Josh Triplett   Bountiful, UT
Just onsighted this afternoon. I want to thank James for putting up this line. I've been climbing the Slips for years and have looked up this line with anticipation. That being the said the start is bloody scary at least for the onsight. I used right had slopers instead of transitioning to the good holds over the starting roof. The glass-like crack was a puzzle as well. The real fun comes at the end where the big roof pull meets much needed jugs. I will climb it again before I develop a solid opinion for rating, but 10b is probably right, especially given Salem's Lot (10c). Jun 21, 2012
I think the thin face moves in the center of the route felt harder than 10b if you stay directly over the bolt line. If you move out to the right on the arete, I would agree with the 10b rating. It was also a little heady moving out to clip the third bolt. Watch out for the guano-topped jugs at the top. Either way, fun new line. Thanks! Jul 10, 2012
James Logan
  5.10 PG13
James Logan  
  5.10 PG13
What is FA-ers beta for the start? I climbed it twice today but I wasn't sure what the FA-er had envisioned. If you truly went bolt to bolt on the start, it would actually be well into the 5.11s if not a twevle. I started my lead slightly to the left, and then directy over bolt one. My next climb I climbed the left arete.

Same up top. I climbed straight over the roof on left (most easterly route possible) but that left me several feet to the left of the chains. My friends climbed to the right of the black water mark. It was relatively easy. I also tried right in the middle (slightly to the left of the water mark and just right of the bolt. It was fun but required a pretty dynamic reach to get up and over the roof- fun though! Anyway, I pretty confused by the first and last bolts. Otherwise, I climbed bolt to bolt. The middles slab section was definately fun with then, even somewhat smooth feet. Don't sell yourself short, stay off the arete to the right and and it's a lot more fun. If you do bolt to bolt, I found the crux to be the middle section slab (without the arete) and would definately say 5.10b (even a C if you really contrive it and stay in the middle). Lol, just read Thomas' comments on the middle section. Bolt to bolt minus the arete, I agree, maybe 5.11+. With the arete, I would say 5.9+. The arete makes it easier than the witch or salem in my opinion. Aug 3, 2012
Holladay, UT
A PS   Holladay, UT
Loved figuring out the cruxy face portion of the route. Avoiding the bat guano at the top was a distraction from a nice finish. It's good to see more 10s at the slips Aug 5, 2012
Taylorsville, UT
  5.10c PG13
DCrane   Taylorsville, UT
  5.10c PG13
I on-sighted this right after the other 10.b (Nosferatu) and this was more difficult. This has some different styles which is kind of cool, but the face climbing is very thin and interesting. I went for the bolt-line instead of using the arete or the crack. There can be a large variation but I think if you stay along the bolt-line it is much harder than 10.b. Not a bad climb, though. It makes you think Aug 28, 2012
Landonwharton Wharton
Salt Lake City, UT
Landonwharton Wharton   Salt Lake City, UT
I would easily put it into the 5.11 range if you go bolt to bolt but 10 b felt correct if you use the arete on the right of bolt 3 and 4. I don't know about you guys but I love any opportunity for a juggy roof heel hook for the last move. Awesome route. Oct 9, 2012
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
The middle slab is definitely the crux. I tried a couple different moves but after my fingers started bleeding from the crack I went right to the arete to get past it. I will try it again next time. I say that staying over the bolts is probably closer to 10d. The top looks much harder that it was. Lots of great jugs to grab. There was still plenty of bat poo though.

I'm wondering what most people do for the start. I used the jugs on the right side but it also looked like you could go left as well. Anyone know the intended route? Mar 31, 2013
Jordy Hanson  
I climbed around the right side of the climb and kinda approached form behind to clip the bottom bolt, downclimbed, then went for it. If the first bolt is spooking you, and you have no stick clip, you might like that approach. If the edeges of the roof look wet from the recent storm, they arent. It's guano. Apr 4, 2013
Mike Stearns
  5.10d PG13
Mike Stearns  
  5.10d PG13
I have a hard time understanding the bolt locations on this climb. #1 seems too far right and the last bolt way too far left relative to the holds. Overall some of the movement is good, but these issues combined with the crappy hold (literally) make this climb less enjoyable. Jul 6, 2013
Garrett C
  5.10c PG13
Garrett C   SL, UT
  5.10c PG13
Arguably the hardest climb at the slips. Not for the 10b leader. As others, struggled to find the intended route. Went up to the right to clip first bolt, then up the juggy arete. The crux for me was the 4th bolt by the crack. Crimps and crack with no feet on very slick rock. The roof has some fun juggs, but two giant X's mark some very cracked flake that are going to bust very soon. Roof is a jugg haul. Really fun climb, definitely a little bit of everything. Sep 5, 2013
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
Although contrived, I think this is the best 10 at the slips. Yes the start is less than straightforward and you traverse quite a bit to get to the thin section, but you get to pull two great roof and a thin crux. I would say it is one of the more difficult climbs at the slips, but not by much. It is less sustained than Salem's Lot. Aug 19, 2014
Skat B
Down Rodeo
  5.10b PG13
Skat B   Down Rodeo
  5.10b PG13
After warming up on the .10c (Salem's Lot?) I jumped on this one and got the onsight, lowered down and then did the direct line, which felt harder than going slightly right, mostly due to how slick the face is. I'd give the slight right variation a .10b, but the direct line felt 5.11. Good finger crack on slick feet to a excellent left hand jug, then some crimps to the roof (roof has monster jugs!). The middle section is definitely the technical crux, but the direct line is definitely the way to try it - and it seems more like how the route should flow. Easy climbing between bolt 2 & 3, just don't fall clipping the 3rd bolt! Cool climb, just super slick!! Aug 19, 2015
J Saarela
Park City
  5.10b PG13
J Saarela   Park City
  5.10b PG13
Getting over the starting bulge and the final roof are the highlights. Extend clips 1, 3, and 6. I didn't really think that through beforehand and it made lowering a drag. Oct 25, 2015
I found this to be THE climb on this side of the slips. Not only does it have the length that the other 10's don't offer, but it involves more than just pulling hard on big holds over roofs (which it does have). It has the full spectrum of climbing that gets me juiced on a route. I was especially delighted by the small finger crack in the middle section, with delicate foot placements and tenuous movement. thanks Garrett! thoughtful climbing.
cheers DBK Mar 20, 2016