[Hide Comment] Good route and quite clean. If you don't think the remnants of moss will clean up, just look @ the slab to the right. It was all covered in moss one day.

Edit (10-31-2020): Perfectly clean. Sep 30, 2011

[Hide Comment] Just did the onsight today. Fun climb, nice and long. Good pockets and fun roof pulls with plenty to hold onto. I used 2x60 to get down and then TR for my partner. Worked out great. Thanks for the climb, and by the way it has cleaned up pretty nicely, just stay a little right until you pass the second clip. Jun 12, 2012

[Hide Comment] This route is doable with a single 60 meter rope with some shenanegins. Just watch the rope ends and be ready to down climb the last five feet of easy fifth class terrain. May 4, 2013

[Hide Comment] Nice climb! I felt like the moves were a lot of fun! The 60m was not enough, I walked off. May 11, 2013

[Hide Comment] Definitely need the 70M here. Well protected, used one sling on about the 4th or 5th bolt. Super fun! Jun 14, 2016

[Hide Comment] someone claims to do it with a 60' rope is a DF. Not even close. DO NOT LISTEN TO HIM and bring at MINIMUM 70. Someone will end up hurt so take my advice. Jul 19, 2017

[Hide Comment] Hey everyone,

The anchors for this climb are described as: "The anchor consists of two Fixe steel lower-off carabiners."

Is this still accurate? There was a deadly accident recently on this climb, and it appears the climber was untying for some reason, which would be odd for lower-off biners. Writing an accident report on this. Any info helps.

thx
Francis
Rock and Ice magazine Sep 14, 2017

[Hide Comment] Francis, I climbed this a couple of weeks ago (Sept. 2017) and there were two Fixe steel lowering carabiners on chains as an anchor. The anchor looked in good condition. No need to untie and thread the anchor, but maybe someone inexperienced didn't realize you could just clip in. Seems unlikely, but stuff happens. Sep 14, 2017

[Hide Comment] Thanks Jim. I really appreciate the beta. Sep 15, 2017

[Hide Comment] Yes, the convenient steel lower off carabiners do NOT negate the need that one should still use one's own locking carabiners when repeatedly lowering and TRing the route. The Steel ones there are already second generation despite the relative young age of the route. The anchor consists of two glue in bolts securing the steel Biners, but I anticipate replacing the steel lower off carabiners once again before winter to insure ongoing safety concerns. The sad accident that occurred earlier in the summer had nothing to do with the fixed equipment on HFCS. Tragically, it was user error. This route REQUIRES a 70m rope or two ropes. Sep 18, 2017

[Hide Comment] Hi James,

Thanks for clarifying. Agreed for sure, the tragic accident was due to user error. From all witnesses there was no gear or anchor failure at all, despite early reporting by some SLC papers. Sep 18, 2017

[Hide Comment] I just want to re-emphasize the need for a 70m rope on this climb (and its right hand neighbor). As Ken notes below, shennanigans can get you down with a 60m but said shennanigans can cause early death for inexperienced climbers. We witnessed a horrific display on this route last week. I still can't figure out how no death or serious injury occurred. So, a bring 70m meter rope and make sure your friends seeking out their first sport lead on this do so on a 70m rope. Cheers. Aug 24, 2019

[Hide Comment] Accident report from 2017: publications.americanalpine…

I see that there were fixed lower-off carabiners at the top at that time. I climbed it today and there were ordinary rappel chains. May 4, 2022

[Hide Comment] There were fixe lower-off biners at the top when I did this today. Anchor was in good condition. Never hurts to bring anchor equipment up if you have any doubts just to be sure, make sure to keep good communication with your belayer - the rushing water in the creek was pretty loud from all the snowmelt. Good warm-up! Jun 11, 2022