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Routes in East Face

Birth Simulator T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chambered Nautilus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coral Bells Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daily Diatribe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deltoid Force T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leftoverture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost But Not Forgotten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MEGA S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mega Worthy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Moral Bells Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oopsie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Overture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
PTFE T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Pump Up the Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raspberry Ripple T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strong Persuader T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sweet and Low S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Teflon Technique T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Touch of Teflon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Worthy Whoopsie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Robert Price, Tracey Price, 2010
Page Views: 243 total, 3/month
Shared By: ddriver on Nov 8, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Good rock, nice features, climbs well, a fun short route and a nice complement to Touch of Teflon. The protection was surprisingly good. I got in 7 pieces, twice in pairs. A couple pieces might not hold big falls and the gear placements require some work, hence the PG rating, but overall surprisingly straightforward.

Location

The rounded arete immediately right of Touch of Teflon. Start up the scoop just right of the arete. Finish as with Touch of Teflon.

Protection

Small cams and small to medium wires. One bigger cam protects the start.

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Nice find DD! Sure I did this years ago on TR but agree its a distinct route worthy of lead. I got seven pieces also but have to admit one was a purple TCU on Daily Diatribe. The alternative was one or two micro nuts to protect what I thought were the crux moves. Maybe next time I will be brave? May 12, 2017
ddriver
SLC
 
ddriver   SLC
 
Noticed the tr/variation comment, so I drew the line in on the existing photo for Touch of Teflon, etc. Point is there is an independent line that can be reasonably lead with gear and bolts are not warranted. Jun 25, 2012
IMO, this route is more just a tr variation to Touch of Teflon Jul 16, 2011
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Nope. Like a bunch of folks, I looked at it and wondered...

Kudos! Looks great. Pic's, please! Nov 9, 2010
ddriver
SLC
 
ddriver   SLC
 
That's right, er left. You done it? Nov 9, 2010
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
RP, is this route left of Daily Diatribe?

Cheers! Nov 8, 2010